16 replies to this topic

[miniflame90]

hi, the top engine mount bolt has sheared in the block, i tried to remove it using splined stud extractors and it sheared them in the bolt, so now its impossible to drill,

is it possible to weld normal steel to cast? as i thought i could weld an mate bolt onto the block for the bush to locate onto?

what do people advise to do?

cheers

[Bungle]

search here and the minispares site for snapped bolt engine steady kit

there is a kit that gets around this problem

[Southy]

How much if any of the stud is left sticking out?It might be possible to bring the engine upto running temp (presuming its still in the car) and then using a centre punch and a hammer tap it round to get it out.

If the engine is out heating the surrounding area slightly with a blow torch or the like will also do the trick.

[Big_Adam]

I'd suggest going to local machine shop, rather than making it worse.

[miniflame90]

yeh i tries tapping it round with a cntre punch, before drilling it,but didnt work. i tried heating it with gas torch as well.

going to have a look for that repair kit now,

cheers guys

[miniflame90]

I'd suggest going to local machine shop, rather than making it worse.

the stud extracors have never failed me before,lol, but made it worse this time.

going to get the minispares kit.

[Brigbeale]

In this month's (Feb 2009) copy of Mini Magazine(page 82), there's a picture of the kit you may find helpful with your problem.

It's titled as an Engine Steady Sheared Bolt Repair Kit and prices are from £15.
There's a phone number 01782 595999
 DSCN0934.JPG   405.34K   8 downloads

The text reads - Take the headache out of a sheared top engine steady bar bolt with one of these Bernard Jones Engineering repair kits. Now made exclusively by Minimine after it took over the Bernard Jones company two years ago, they offer a permanent fix without the need for a potentially costly engine removal. What's more their design means that nylon steady bushes can be used without suffering from heat transmitted by the engine. Kits can be bought to remedy one or two sheared bolts, with each available to suit engines with or without a clutch housing breather.

When I've charged by camera battery, I'll try to get a piccie on.

Also, I bought a Ford Ka a while ago which had missed a service (or two).
The spark plugs snapped off and I used a cheap extractor tool to try to release the ring that was left after the hex broke off the plug. This got two of the plugs out but snapped on the third.
I tried to drill it but it wouldn't have it.
I spoke to an engine rebuilder and he told me to buy some cobalt drills.
I had to get them from an engineer's supplier and was told to use them on a very slow speed or they would overheat and to blunt and start with a small drill and then enlarge the hole with a bigger cobalt drill.
They drilled into the extractor brilliantly and I used a standard thread tap and it got the extractor out.

I ended up trying to cut the remains of the sparkplug with a hacksaw blade and got too carried away with it, cut into the head itself and had to replace the head (DOH).

Edited by Brigbeale, 25 January 2009 - 12:35 PM.

[dklawson]

Please, please, please do NOT consider this an "I told you so" type of post, I certainly do not want it to sound that way.

However, the experience you are now dealing with where the EasyOut broke off in the block is exactly why I NEVER use them. They are too risky a tool to use. There are other methods for getting broken bolts out that don't have these consequences.

By all means get the Mini Spares kit.

As for the machine shop getting this out... remember this would mean taking the engine out and flipping it up on its side. The process commonly used is EDM (electro-discharge-machining, sometimes called spark erosion). It would not easily be done on something as big as an engine block... but it could be done.

The DIY method for this can be to use a small carbide burr in a die grinder. A sharp carbide will cut out the broken EasyOut but the hole left behind may need other attention to make it usable. (i.e. some form of thread insert).

[mk1leg]

Hi..has any of your friends got a Drammel drill if yes go to B&Q and buy one of the tungsten carbide tile cutters and use this to remove old snaped off stud extractor and then mill out old stud till you just see thread then re tap with plug tap..............worked for me ..............

[mini_kel]

If there is a small amount sticking out you may be able to weld a nut onto the broken stud, with the heat this will then normally unscrew

[Boycie]

Yeah I have done what Kel suggests in the past.

I've also snapped a cheap-o easyout in a cylinder head before and I agree... you don't want this to happen if you can avoid it!!!

Get the Minispares kit

[icklemini]

happened to me on a few occasions...

using the welder sorted it each time..

if its sheared below the surface - put a washer across the hole and weld through the hole in the washer then place a nut ontop of the washer and weld it up... can then use a spanner on the nut to wind it out...

[dklawson]

splined stud extractors and it sheared them in the bolt, so now its impossible to drill,

To those suggesting welding the nut on the broken bolt... that would be great if it had been done before the EasyOut was broken off in the bolt (see quote above). The easy out is very very hard. Carbide (as Mk1leg and I suggested) is the only DIY option left other than forgetting about the broken bolt and buying the Mini Spares kit.

[miniboo]

welding a nut on should still work though Doug.

[dklawson]

Matt, if the EasyOut is broken off in the bolt, you'd be welding a nut to a brittle piece of steel broken off inside a bolt that it wasn't able to remove on its own. I expect all you'd see is the weld break where it joined the broken EasyOut.