Hey,
Looking to buy some rust treatmens - seen that Jenolite has been recommended on a few posts but most people mention Dinitrol RC800. As Jenolite is much cheaper I'm thinking of buying that - any advice? Or any other products out there just as good?
Cheers,
Carthy

Jenolite Or Dinitrol? Rust Treatments
Started by
carthy79
, Jan 01 2009 10:33 PM
6 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 01 January 2009 - 10:33 PM
#2
Posted 02 January 2009 - 03:50 PM
I'd be interested to hear people's views on this too.
I have just started my restoration Carthy, and have bought Dinitrol (the aerosol version) - it does work well but what I did notice is - After using a wire brush / drill on the rust, then applying Dinitrol, I went back after a week and I thought I'd try using the wire brush again, and there was still light brown rust 'underneath' the black Dinitrol coating, if you know what I mean. I presume this is normal, I guess the Dinitrol just 'stops' the chemical reaction from going further and progressing? Or maybe I didn't get enough of the rust off to begin with?
I have also got some POR 'Metal Ready' - have heard good things about that but it doesn't seem as easy to use (i.e. you need to keep the area in question 'wet' with it for as long as possible, then rinse it off), so this sounds more useful for immersing small rusty parts into a bath?
I have been told Jenolite is very good - the thick jelly version? If that still exists? I also tried something called Kurust and again, it did what it said on the tin but some people don't recommend it.
Once you've attacked the rust, make sure it is finished & top painted well. My plan is to cure the rust then apply POR15 paint. It's expensive, but supposed to be very good indeed, and more chip resistant than Hammerite.
Good Luck!
I have just started my restoration Carthy, and have bought Dinitrol (the aerosol version) - it does work well but what I did notice is - After using a wire brush / drill on the rust, then applying Dinitrol, I went back after a week and I thought I'd try using the wire brush again, and there was still light brown rust 'underneath' the black Dinitrol coating, if you know what I mean. I presume this is normal, I guess the Dinitrol just 'stops' the chemical reaction from going further and progressing? Or maybe I didn't get enough of the rust off to begin with?
I have also got some POR 'Metal Ready' - have heard good things about that but it doesn't seem as easy to use (i.e. you need to keep the area in question 'wet' with it for as long as possible, then rinse it off), so this sounds more useful for immersing small rusty parts into a bath?
I have been told Jenolite is very good - the thick jelly version? If that still exists? I also tried something called Kurust and again, it did what it said on the tin but some people don't recommend it.
Once you've attacked the rust, make sure it is finished & top painted well. My plan is to cure the rust then apply POR15 paint. It's expensive, but supposed to be very good indeed, and more chip resistant than Hammerite.
Good Luck!
#3
Posted 02 January 2009 - 03:59 PM
normally you aplly some kind of rust treatment before the dinitrol...
thats what they always told me and what i alsways do....
freaker
thats what they always told me and what i alsways do....
freaker
#4
Posted 02 January 2009 - 04:50 PM
look up a company called billet hamber in essex fantastic rust treatment stuff from theses guys
dave
dave
#5
Posted 02 January 2009 - 05:07 PM
Read the bumf and find out what the active ingredients are most are phosphoric acid the black stuff is Iron Phosphate.
#6
Posted 02 January 2009 - 05:56 PM
Just ordered some Jenolite so going to give that a blast. Have used the Hammerite green slime stuff in the past and seemed alright but just a bit messy. Going to add some POR 15 once treated and that should keep the rust at bay for a while.
#7
Posted 02 January 2009 - 06:58 PM
Jenolite is best for light rust, but is like water so dries quickly, therefore you need to apply a few coats for it to work, Dinitrol RC800 is better for heavier rust, as it's thick and doesn't evaporate so quickly, therefore you use less. Obviously you should remove as much corrosion as possible before treating.
Edited by panelbeaterpeter, 02 January 2009 - 06:59 PM.
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