1989 Austin Rover Retro Mayfair
#196
Posted 03 August 2010 - 11:40 AM
Otherwise your car looks good!
#197
Posted 04 August 2010 - 07:42 PM
Because I wanted the heater hoses to enter the car via the un-used holes on the right hand side of the bulkhead, I then needed to drill suitable holes for the grommets in the blanking plate.
That was until I worked out that the holes in a spare master cylinder bracket were the perfect size, just have to trim off the unwanted bit now.
[attachment=101475:DSC_00496.jpg][attachment=101476:DSC_00497.jpg]
And because I was unable to bolt the carb onto the inlet as it hits the bulkhead (still need to cut and box it) I made up an adjustable engine steady from an old bolt, 2 nuts and some spare tube. Test fitting with some old bushes as the new one i'd bought don't fit. Just need to clean up my welds and paint it.
[attachment=101477:DSC_00502.jpg][attachment=101478:DSC_00500.jpg]
Edited by 1984mini25, 08 August 2010 - 08:22 PM.
#198
Posted 08 August 2010 - 08:30 PM
I had planned on unbolting the central hub on the old diaphragm as it’s quite clearly past it. Swap it over onto my decent second-hand replacement and just buy a new clutch plate.
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Ha, if only after removing the hub on the old one I then found out that the threads in the other one are different. In the old knackered one there m10 fine, but in my replacement there m10 course.
So that screwed up that idea.
Edited by 1984mini25, 08 August 2010 - 08:31 PM.
#199
Posted 21 August 2010 - 07:48 PM
With zero oil pressure at anything below 1.5k, although it got me home (don’t have breakdown cover) I’m not too happy at having the idle set at 1500rpm just to keep the oil pressure up.
So rather annoyingly I’ve had to spend what little money I have and borrow on the never, never.
I tried all the simple things, but the longer I leave it trying different things, if it was the oil pump; it would only be doing more damage in the long run.
And to do the oil pump in a ‘normal’ minis engine bay is a bit cramped, so the only option was to pull the engine out and tear into it and find out what had gone wrong.
[attachment=101980:DSC_00545.jpg] [attachment=101979:DSC_00548.jpg]
So engine out and drain the oil to find… oh ******* that’s a lot metal to be in the oil after only just 200ih miles.
Clutch/flywheel off, housing off, to find 3 of the threads in the gearbox were sill on the ends of the bolts. I’m not having much luck with those, I snapped 2 on the Mayfair and now I’ve got these 3 to repair.
Anyways hosing off and oil pump off for a looksie, although the bolts were only finger tight.
But with the pump off it was clear that it was filled with more metal causing it to jam up, plus once striped was also heavily scored (looks better in the picks)
[attachment=101981:DSC_00571.jpg]
So seeing as it’s now quite cleat that with not only metal floating around in the oil, but also in the pump as well, time to split the engine from the box to have a look at the crank.
And the bearings/crank aren’t great with some wear/scoring.
[attachment=101988:DSC_00559.jpg]
But with funds being as tight as they are I only really have 2 options. 1. Throw in a new set of bearings, flush out the last of the metal in the bottom of the gearbox, fit a new oil pump and run it till it dies or 2. Scrap/strip it down for bits for the project/sell on.
So after picking up a new oil pump and a few gaskets along with a few hose connectors/clamps for the Mayfair at mitp, as I didn’t see anything else worth buying. I personally thought the turn out was pretty poor and well down on previous years, certainly put me off for anymore shows this year.
And now I’m just waiting on parts, but I need to somehow fit the new bearings, drop the engine back in, run it, small patch on the n/s sill (should stop picking at underseal) and hopefully drive it all before the mot runs out Friday, so Thursday at the latest.
So nothing like leaving it till the last minuet and that’s all providing the mot tester isn’t having a bad day and just want to pick fault at everything.
Still at least now I’ve sorted out the fitting problems with the minispares lcb and have fitted the rest of the exhaust system. Even if I did have to modify the rear bracket to allow the exhaust to hang lower to clear the handbrake cables/subframe.
And I’ve also made up a little bracket for the rear valance to mount a fog lamp I’m yet to find.
[attachment=101991:DSC_00588.jpg] [attachment=101992:DSC_00580.jpg]
[attachment=101993:DSC_00584.jpg] [attachment=101994:DSC_00591.jpg]
Edited by 1984mini25, 21 December 2010 - 09:36 PM.
#200
Posted 22 August 2010 - 08:55 AM
#201
Posted 22 August 2010 - 01:33 PM
It’s the original mainflow one that came with the rear box, but the standard one uses one of those clamps normally found on the lcb y section.
Which mean the clamp had to be fitted to the rear box and then hung on the mounts, but I was finding that a bit of a pain with the poly mounts I was using and the rear valance getting in the way. Plus once it was fitted, the rear box was sitting too high up.
It’s still a little too high and the spare around the subframe and handbrake stuff is a little tight, plus I’ve also got the u clamp for the link pipe to rear box in the way as well.
So instead I chopped off the mainflow clamp and welded on and normal u clamp, that way it meant I could fit the bracket to the poly mounts and then bolt the rear box up after.
It’s also now given me the difference between the rear box sitting to high up and just clearing. I might however make up another bracket to allow it to hang a little lower or just see how it goes.
I’ve also got to play around with the centre mount, as that’s currently not fitted as the rear box is sitting too high up.
#202
Posted 22 August 2010 - 11:00 PM
In the most inaccessible area possible to re-weld, but then it wasn’t my weld that broke, it was the metal around it.
So I’ve had to make the decision to just make the front removable instead, as it really doesn’t look like I’ll be able to keep the flip front while still using all metal panels due to the weight.
#203
Posted 23 August 2010 - 08:44 PM
Pulled a few bits out of the gearbox to make it easier to flush out t the metal that’s been floating around inside.
Which is when I spotted the cage the balls sit in, in the main double roller bearing was missing, along with a few of the balls.
Great… Not.
So I’ve found were all the metals come from that was floating around in the gearbox and then the pump/engine, but it now means the gearbox is stuffed.
But I’m also fast running out of money, so if I can’t find a quick and cheap solution, it might well just be the final straw for this mini...
#204
Posted 25 August 2010 - 02:06 PM
2 out of 3 of my ebay items all ordered the same time on the same day have arrived, the 3rd hasn't is not replying.
Mini-it’s have been great; delivering the bits I need to fix the gearbox next day.
Shane on minispares though, just been informed that a set of bearings, which I ordered last week when in stock (about the only item hence having to use e-bay and the like) are now infact out of stock (a week later).
Which along with the ebay seller are holding me up, so the only option I have now is to cancel the minispares order (it WILL be my last) and re-order the bearings from somewhere else and keep chasing the e-bay seller.
But thanks to that I’ve now missed my deadline for when I had wanted it done, so it’s first test drive to see if everything is ok will be on the way to the mot, which I still have to worry about.
Starting to wonder if all of this is actually worth it…
Edited by 1984mini25, 25 August 2010 - 02:25 PM.
#205
Posted 25 September 2010 - 08:51 PM
£250 and a week later than planned the 25’s engine and box was finally back together and back in the mini, just the small matter of getting it running. Ha, how hard can it be lol.
After connecting everything back up, I’d deliberately left the cables still attached to the carb and just removed the linkages instead.
But that still didn’t stop the choke cable deciding to jam up, thanks Jay for dropping one round otherwise I would have been really stuck.
The first big hurdle was after a new oil pump, crank and bearings, would it actually have any oil pressure?
Well after jacking one side, priming the oil pump and turning the engine over backwards buy hand a few times I gave it a go on the starter… and nope oil light still on.
So tried the above again, and again still no joy, or for the 3rd time either.
By that time I was getting seriously worried that the engine was still dead and would need to come back out, so I kind of just popped the plugs back in and tried to fire it up anyways… only for the oil light the magically go out just before it fired into life.
That was the first hurdle crossed, just the small matter of letting it run up to temp, set the timing, play with the mix and bleed the cooling system and keep an eye on the oil pressure.
All was going well, right up until the alternator belt decided to disintegrate and wrap it’s self round the pulleys, great lol. Luckily I’d had a slightly used spare, so that was quickly changed over and I continued to let it run up
Once it ad been running for a good 45 mins with no other problems and a quick test to see if first, reverse and the clutch all worked I called it a day, just leaving a quite patch job on the n/s sill and mot time.
Did the welding that considering that the n/s is still original wasn’t in too bad a condition, the inner sill was completely rot free, and then it was sent off for it’s mot.
Now if I was looking forward to the oil pressure problem before, I really wasn’t looking forward to the first drive to the mot station.
Apart from every time the gear stick was moved to natural between gear changes when it would momentarily seize solid, it passed with not a single advisory.
So that was the mot out the way, just time for it’s first proper run out to Stanford hall, thankfully after a short while the gearbox did loosen up and it pretty much ran without a single hiccup. Which is good, as I wasn’t planning on having to spend any more on it.
So as the 25 was now road worthy I could concentrate on looking round the trade stands at Stanford for all the bits I still needed to finish the Mayfair.
I was quite surprised; I actually managed to get quite a few items and a few I hadn’t planned on buying.
Ended up buying a pair of slave cylinder and hoses for a tenner, only because on cylinder looked new ish but had a knackered hose and the other cylinder was shot but had a decent hose lol.
But after using the 2 good items and connecting then up, it works, so can’t ask for anymore than that.
[attachment=103140:HPIM3338.jpg]
Also picked up a horn for 2 quid, one disadvantage is you never know if them work or not, hence why quickly testing it on the 25 in the mini car park lol.
[attachment=103141:HPIM3340.jpg]
Just need to drill out the holes and replace the pop rivets with some nuts welded into the brace bar and bolt it in place properly.
A battery box for £12, which must have been about the only one at the show, to which I’ve now done this to, just need to finish it off.
[attachment=103142:HPIM3344.jpg][attachment=103143:HPIM3342.jpg]
But I now have enough room for the carb to sit and get the air filter on and off without having the remove the carb in the process.
A load of random engine bolts and stuff, most of which I’d robbed and used to fix the 25. Also bought a flywheel key plate for 50p as I’d used the Mayfair’s on the 25, but unfortunately I’ve now realised it’s the wrong type for my clutch.
Another new ish choke cable (still looking for a heater one), which surprisingly was about another 8 inches longer than the one Jay dropped round lol.
A brand new, boxed cone air filter for £11.50, which I was really chuffed with, was looking at twice that for a used one.
[attachment=103144:HPIM3349.jpg]
A rear view mirror for a fiver, to replace the original which somehow has been lost
And lastly one item I had no intentions on buying, but the price was right was a standard rover dash which I’ve since used as a template to make up another other dash for which I can actually fit everything behind.
[attachment=103145:HPIM3325.jpg][attachment=103146:HPIM3328.jpg]
[attachment=103147:HPIM3331.jpg]
I was also thinking on offering making up a few more, but standard shape rover ones to sell, but I’ve had no interest so probs won’t bother.
That’s was about it, there were still a few items, that even looking for new ones I just couldn’t seam to find, but oh wells, I’ll just have to keep looking.
I’ve also since tarted up the original heater with some vinyl, rubber trim and paint. As for some bizarre reason the last owner had decided to stick carpet all over the heater, which once removed pulled all the paint off with it.
[attachment=103149:HPIM3351.jpg]
And a really good e-bay buy.
I’d spotted it a few days before the action was due to end, but bid on it anyways expecting to be out bit like normal, only to end up winning it.
It’s a brand new reproduction wipac rear fog lamp, and the big bonus I wasn’t expecting is it’s stainless too, not bad than as it was only £4 including postage.
[attachment=103150:HPIM3358.jpg][attachment=103151:HPIM3361.jpg]
Edited by 1984mini25, 21 December 2010 - 09:40 PM.
#206
Posted 25 September 2010 - 09:51 PM
#207
Posted 25 September 2010 - 10:30 PM
After having read your last few posts you have done well to sort the 25, i think i would have taken a rather large club hammer to it either that or shot it so well done for persevering with it.
Having owned the 25 for 5 years getting on for 6 and been used as a daily I’m pretty much used to it throwing it’s toys out of the pram, just a pain that’s it’s biggest tantrum is normally always before the mot is due.
And it was behaving it’s self up until a few days ago when it refused to start and then when it did, decided to dump a load of fuel out the overflow on the carb all over the drive/road again.
Surprise, surprise, when I got round to pulling the carb apart to see if anything was wrong I couldn’t find anything.
#208
Posted 27 September 2010 - 06:47 PM
After having read your last few posts you have done well to sort the 25, i think i would have taken a rather large club hammer to it either that or shot it so well done for persevering with it.
After today’s events, I’ve come pretty close to doing the above.
It turns out that my interior light has some how shorted out and has been on melting the light unit and draining the battery with it.
So that’s a new interior light, just happen to be the early type and a new battery needed as well.
Still at least I’ve got a battery to get it moving, I just have to charge it up first before I need to go anywhere.
#209
Posted 30 September 2010 - 07:30 PM
So today’s work has been, seeing as winters just around the corner again and I never got round to doing it last year, was to underseal the underside of the 25.
I think I’ve got enough on there, although I still need to pick up another can to do the fiddly bits as I ran out.
Although I can see why I put off doing it last year, I’ve ended up with the stuff all in my hair, all over my face, over my hand and up my arms lol.
[attachment=103304:HPIM3364.jpg][attachment=103305:HPIM3365.jpg]
[attachment=103306:HPIM3367.jpg][attachment=103307:HPIM3369.jpg]
At the mo I’m just waiting on a few little bits to arrive in the post for the Mayfair, so I might just be able to see if the rebuilt engine runs.
But in the mean time over the weekend I’m hoping on getting the bulkhead finished and painted.
#210
Posted 02 October 2010 - 06:43 PM
Still how hard can it be? I’ve done it several times before In 'normal' minis and with the from end/brace bar removed it should be a doodle... right?
Well sort of, jacked the engine up, removed the cover, fitted the flywheel/clutch, stuck the cover back on, went to clear up my tools and there in the pile is that red/pinkish dust seal.
*******, isn’t that supposed to go on before the flywheel/clutch????
So if it wasn’t easy the first time, I’ve now got to go through it all over again just to fit the stupid thing.
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