23 replies to this topic

[eden7842]

does anyone have a guide on how to swap a steering rack i knocked a curb last night and its seems to have broke the
rack where the boot is.

any opinion's much appreciated

note too anyone dont go near a curb they win!

[Jimmy Hat]

'I fought the kerb and the, the kerb won'

Sorry lol. You looked in a Haynes manual at all, because that might be easier than somebody providing a guide on here...

[JamesRance]

'I fought the kerb and the, the kerb won'

Sorry lol. You looked in a Haynes manual at all, because that might be easier than somebody providing a guide on here...

hmm well, i dont have a guide but u have to take the front subframe out to take the steering rack out! sucks dont it

cheers

James

[eden7842]

yeah the haynes doesn't tell u the problems that may come up

i assume id have to re bleed my breaks

[minidaves]

breif guide to how to change a rack

you need 2 trolley jacks and 2 axle stands 1 5/16's socket couple of 1/2" and 7/16s spanners ball joint spliter

new track rod ends are a good idea too

bassically

you need to drop the subframe down around 2" to get the rack past the hole in the floor for the column shaft to pass.
disconnect the batory
jack car up and place axle stands on corners of front floor
put both jacks (one each side of subframe)
undo tower bolts and floor bolts of subframe, no need to touch the front mounts
undo shocks from body
undo ball joints from steering arms and split

gentley lower subframe on jacks around 2" but watch for strain on anything like exhaust or bat cable

then undo pinch bolt on steering column and the 4x 1/2 nuts that hold the u bolts in place that secure the rack, push u bolts down and slightly open the bottom of steering column to free from rack

wiggle the rack and now it should clear the car remove from car

refit is same as removal, but make sure the column sits properly on the rack else you can end up with no steering as the pinch bolt bolts these two items together

roughly set tracking with a tape measure equal measurements from front edges and rear edges of tyres so car is driveable then take to garage and get tracked correctly

should take 4-5hours for a diy mechanic

I cannot accept responsibilty if i have forgoten to mention or any advice i have given is incorrect, the above is a guide and should be taken as such.

[eden7842]

thats spot on mate thanks

[mk3 Cooper S]

I would remove the carb and airbox too.

[eden7842]

what about the breaks will they need bleeding or do i get away without

[icklemini]

ummmmm - you arent disconnecting the brakes so they shouldnt need bleeding...

[eden7842]

soo wen i drop the subframe away from the shell thers enough slack in the brake lines to allow for it?

[icklemini]

yep.. but as minidaves says: check as you're lowering the subframe down.
one to watch is the S shaped pipe going to the front brakes...

[minidaves]

You dont need to undo any brake lines some of the art of proceedures is the care you take whilst doing the job at the point of where the brake line goes to the front brakes the subframe moves under 1/2" and the brake lines are not taught in a mini.

Just take care and check everything and do things slowley and if not sure stop and look at the situation and work out the next step

dave

[eden7842]

sweet thats good i wasent looking forward to bleeding them its boaring lol

if i got any problems il be straight back here for advice and il let u know how well it goes

cheers everyone

[mk3 Cooper S]

I have done this recently and I got away without touching the front shocks but I did slacken off the front mounts on the lower front panel.

Try and jack up the car as high as you can get it - obviously use decent props and supports which I put on the edge of the lower splash panel/inner wheel arch.

[eden7842]

so tried too take it off today and ran into a problem could slit the colum from the rack
how is this achieved?