19 replies to this topic

[reggie]

Hi all,

Just wondering what the deal is with using 2k at home, I know that you need to use a proper airfed mask and protective clothing, but what about filtered extraction? The garage is not connected to the house, but the neighbour's garage is attached to our garage.

The neighbour mows the lawn with a face mask, so I'm worried that she will rat on me for using toxic paint because she is probably vulnerable to fumes (or maybe she just has hay-fever?)

I have bought the paint but I'm wondering whether I'd be better off getting a pro bodyshop to do it, of course I'd rather try doing it myself to save on costs. Maybe I'm just being paranoid but the last thing I want is an environmental officer knocking on the door.

Am I allowed to use 2k at home? I am prepared to hire whatever extraction equiptment I will need to comply, or is it outright illegal?

[blue redtop]

who's going to see you do it locked up in a garage?.
what they dont know cant hurt them.

i dont think there's anything wrong with using 2k at home. just wear a proper mask to save brain cells. lol

[spud]

Just to add on from this - is there any rules or regs relating to using celly in my garage? I did a full respray last year and was told that the fumes could be smelled a long way down the street - though no-one actually complained about it If it becomes a problem where do I stand?

Cheers.

[reggie]

who's going to see you do it locked up in a garage?.
what they dont know cant hurt them.

i dont think there's anything wrong with using 2k at home. just wear a proper mask to save brain cells. lol

I'll have to block up the air vents between the 2 garages in case the neighbour sniffs out the toxins. There must come a point where all the toxins evaporate\disperse, I reckon an extractor from HSS would do the job, I'll point the exhaust diectly into the air... Or would it be better to leave the air 'still' for 24 hours or something, until all the toxins have exaporated?

[Pauly]

Lets face it, all paints are toxic just some more than others.

Theres no problem with celly paint aswell as 2k when using it at home, just make sure you have a good mask.

Paul.

[camp freddy]

Hi all,

Just wondering what the deal is with using 2k at home, I know that you need to use a proper airfed mask and protective clothing, but what about filtered extraction? The garage is not connected to the house, but the neighbour's garage is attached to our garage.

The neighbour mows the lawn with a face mask, so I'm worried that she will rat on me for using toxic paint because she is probably vulnerable to fumes (or maybe she just has hay-fever?)

I have bought the paint but I'm wondering whether I'd be better off getting a pro bodyshop to do it, of course I'd rather try doing it myself to save on costs. Maybe I'm just being paranoid but the last thing I want is an environmental officer knocking on the door.

Am I allowed to use 2k at home? I am prepared to hire whatever extraction equiptment I will need to comply, or is it outright illegal?

some info, the main danger is cyanide in the paint, can cause/ enhance respiratory problems


http://www.hse.gov.u...uidance/mr1.pdf

Edited by camp freddy, 29 November 2008 - 09:54 PM.

[reggie]

Hi all,

Just wondering what the deal is with using 2k at home, I know that you need to use a proper airfed mask and protective clothing, but what about filtered extraction? The garage is not connected to the house, but the neighbour's garage is attached to our garage.

The neighbour mows the lawn with a face mask, so I'm worried that she will rat on me for using toxic paint because she is probably vulnerable to fumes (or maybe she just has hay-fever?)

I have bought the paint but I'm wondering whether I'd be better off getting a pro bodyshop to do it, of course I'd rather try doing it myself to save on costs. Maybe I'm just being paranoid but the last thing I want is an environmental officer knocking on the door.

Am I allowed to use 2k at home? I am prepared to hire whatever extraction equiptment I will need to comply, or is it outright illegal?

some info, the main danger in cyanide in the paint, can cause/ enhance respiratory problems

http://www.hse.gov.u...uidance/mr1.pdf

Cheers!

[camp freddy]

Hi all,

Just wondering what the deal is with using 2k at home, I know that you need to use a proper airfed mask and protective clothing, but what about filtered extraction? The garage is not connected to the house, but the neighbour's garage is attached to our garage.

The neighbour mows the lawn with a face mask, so I'm worried that she will rat on me for using toxic paint because she is probably vulnerable to fumes (or maybe she just has hay-fever?)

I have bought the paint but I'm wondering whether I'd be better off getting a pro bodyshop to do it, of course I'd rather try doing it myself to save on costs. Maybe I'm just being paranoid but the last thing I want is an environmental officer knocking on the door.

Am I allowed to use 2k at home? I am prepared to hire whatever extraction equiptment I will need to comply, or is it outright illegal?

some info, the main danger in cyanide in the paint, can cause/ enhance respiratory problems

http://www.hse.gov.u...uidance/mr1.pdf

Cheers!

be safe, don't be risky..

[reggie]

I will be safe that's for sure, just worried about others getting anal about me spraying in the garage. So long as I am not breaking the law...

[GOODY2BE]

What about the O-zone maan !!! thing is the mini probably throws out more fumes lol do it christmas day nobody will be in there garages then?

[reggie]

Also, I wanted to ask; when you work with 2k how do you go about the job?

1 - prepare the surface (do you need to totally remove the previous paint to bare metal? Or is sanding and wet and drying ok)
2 - Spray a (or 2) coat(s) of primer
3 - Wet and dry the primer?
4 - Spray (how many coats?) 2k basecoat
5 - Spray (how many coats?) 2k Laquer

Also, how much time between coats?

Advice would be greatly appreciated... Cheers

Edited by reggie, 29 November 2008 - 11:08 PM.

[Senile Old Git]

Also, I wanted to ask; when you work with 2k how do you go about the job?

1 - prepare the surface (do you need to totally remove the previous paint to bare metal? Or is sanding and wet and drying ok)
2 - Spray a (or 2) coat(s) of primer
3 - Wet and dry the primer?
4 - Spray (how many coats?) 2k basecoat
5 - Spray (how many coats?) 2k Laquer

Also, how much time between coats?

Advice would be greatly appreciated... Cheers

Prepare the car with wet and dry to make sure the car is totally smooth, giving it a final rub down with paper no harsher than 800 grit. Before applying paint wipe the car over with panel wipe to remove any graese marks. If you think the car has been painted with hamerite or any other non compliant paint it might be worth giving the car a coat of BARCOAT this seals the surface, you spray this out of the tin WITHOUT adding any thinners.


Ideally you will need to heat the garage up, especially in these temperatures, the warmer it is the easier the product is to work with. Get the floor and walls damp to stop dust blowing up onto your new paint! ENSURE you have not being spraying silicone based products around.

2K Primer, three parts paint. one part hardner and a splash of 2K thinners for luck, initially give the whole car a light mist, allow to nearly dry, then give it another slightly heavier coat, allow to virtually dry and if is its a bit thin anywhere give it another coat. Leave that to dry, it will dry inside an hour in optimum conditions, so you allow at least 24 hours.


You can dry flat primer with fine production paper or wet with 1500 grit wet and dry, the finish should be smooth as a babies b*m. Panel wipe the whole car

Basecoat - 50% paint , 50% 2K thinners, apply as a fine mist coat initially and built up gradually until the car is covered, check the rear valance, front panel that you have the car covered everywhere. Try not to get runs in the base coat, as the laquer needs to be applied within 1 hour. Once applied do not touch the surface. This is important!!


Laquer, 2 parts laquer, one part hardner, splash of thinners for luck. This must be applied to the basecoat as soon as it matts off as the two products chemically react to bond. We call this the gripper and woofer routine. One light coat of laquer all over, wait till it goes as sticky as a postage stamp. This is the gripper coat, it will actually grip the next heavier coat. Then spray the car again, the art is to get the laquer even and shiny off the gun without getting runs. Apply as many coats as you want but three is usually more than enough. If runs do appear do not fret they can be rubbed out once dry.

Leave the car for at least 48 hours.

Rub car down with 2000 wet and dry paper with soap until the finish is totally matt, then polish with G3 compound with an hard foam head on a electric mop, then use 3m Finesee but this time use a soft head to remove any minor scratches then hand polish with autoglm to a brilliant finish.


Stand back and admire thinking I did that!


Good luck!

Edited by Senile Old Git, 30 November 2008 - 08:23 AM.

[blue redtop]

Also, I wanted to ask; when you work with 2k how do you go about the job?

1 - prepare the surface (do you need to totally remove the previous paint to bare metal? Or is sanding and wet and drying ok)
2 - Spray a (or 2) coat(s) of primer
3 - Wet and dry the primer?
4 - Spray (how many coats?) 2k basecoat
5 - Spray (how many coats?) 2k Laquer

Also, how much time between coats?

Advice would be greatly appreciated... Cheers

Prepare the car with wet and dry to make sure the car is totally smooth, giving it a final rub down with paper no harsher than 800 grit. Before applying paint wipe the car over with panel wipe to remove any graese marks. If you think the car has been painted with hamerite or any other non compliant paint it might be worth giving the car a coat of BARCOAT this seals the surface, you spray this out of the tin WITHOUT adding any thinners.


Ideally you will need to heat the garage up, especially in these temperatures, the warmer it is the easier the product is to work with. Get the floor and walls damp to stop dust blowing up onto your new paint! ENSURE you have not being spraying silicone based products around.

2K Primer, three parts paint. one part hardner and a splash of 2K thinners for luck, initially give the whole car a light mist, allow to nearly dry, then give it another slightly heavier coat, allow to virtually dry and if is its a bit thin anywhere give it another coat. Leave that to dry, it will dry inside an hour in optimum conditions, so you allow at least 24 hours.


You can dry flat primer with fine production paper or wet with 1500 grit wet and dry, the finish should be smooth as a babies b*m. Panel wipe the whole car

Basecoat - 50% paint , 50% 2K thinners, apply as a fine mist coat initially and built up gradually until the car is covered, check the rear valance, front panel that you have the car covered everywhere. Try not to get runs in the base coat, as the laquer needs to be applied within 1 hour. Once applied do not touch the surface. This is important!!


Laquer, 2 parts laquer, one part hardner, splash of thinners for luck. This must be applied to the basecoat as soon as it matts off as the two products chemically react to bond. We call this the gripper and woofer routine. One light coat of laquer all over, wait till it goes as sticky as a postage stamp. This is the gripper coat, it will actually grip the next heavier coat. Then spray the car again, the art is to get the laquer even and shiny off the gun without getting runs. Apply as many coats as you want but three is usually more than enough. If runs do appear do not fret they can be rubbed out once dry.

Leave the car for at least 48 hours.

Rub car down with 2000 wet and dry paper with soap until the finish is totally matt, then polish with G3 compound with an hard foam head on a electric mop, then use 3m Finesee but this time use a soft head to remove any minor scratches then hand polish with autoglm to a brilliant finish.


Stand back and admire thinking I did that!


Good luck!

nice
you make it sound soooooo easy lol

[Shifty]

Also, I wanted to ask; when you work with 2k how do you go about the job?

1 - prepare the surface (do you need to totally remove the previous paint to bare metal? Or is sanding and wet and drying ok)
2 - Spray a (or 2) coat(s) of primer
3 - Wet and dry the primer?
4 - Spray (how many coats?) 2k basecoat
5 - Spray (how many coats?) 2k Laquer

Also, how much time between coats?

Advice would be greatly appreciated... Cheers

Prepare the car with wet and dry to make sure the car is totally smooth, giving it a final rub down with paper no harsher than 800 grit. Before applying paint wipe the car over with panel wipe to remove any graese marks. If you think the car has been painted with hamerite or any other non compliant paint it might be worth giving the car a coat of BARCOAT this seals the surface, you spray this out of the tin WITHOUT adding any thinners.


Ideally you will need to heat the garage up, especially in these temperatures, the warmer it is the easier the product is to work with. Get the floor and walls damp to stop dust blowing up onto your new paint! ENSURE you have not being spraying silicone based products around.

2K Primer, three parts paint. one part hardner and a splash of 2K thinners for luck, initially give the whole car a light mist, allow to nearly dry, then give it another slightly heavier coat, allow to virtually dry and if is its a bit thin anywhere give it another coat. Leave that to dry, it will dry inside an hour in optimum conditions, so you allow at least 24 hours.


You can dry flat primer with fine production paper or wet with 1500 grit wet and dry, the finish should be smooth as a babies b*m. Panel wipe the whole car

Basecoat - 50% paint , 50% 2K thinners, apply as a fine mist coat initially and built up gradually until the car is covered, check the rear valance, front panel that you have the car covered everywhere. Try not to get runs in the base coat, as the laquer needs to be applied within 1 hour. Once applied do not touch the surface. This is important!!


Laquer, 2 parts laquer, one part hardner, splash of thinners for luck. This must be applied to the basecoat as soon as it matts off as the two products chemically react to bond. We call this the gripper and woofer routine. One light coat of laquer all over, wait till it goes as sticky as a postage stamp. This is the gripper coat, it will actually grip the next heavier coat. Then spray the car again, the art is to get the laquer even and shiny off the gun without getting runs. Apply as many coats as you want but three is usually more than enough. If runs do appear do not fret they can be rubbed out once dry.

Leave the car for at least 48 hours.

Rub car down with 2000 wet and dry paper with soap until the finish is totally matt, then polish with G3 compound with an hard foam head on a electric mop, then use 3m Finesee but this time use a soft head to remove any minor scratches then hand polish with autoglm to a brilliant finish.


Stand back and admire thinking I did that!


Good luck!

Some excellent advice there SoG!!

Its almost sounds like you know what ya doin!!!

I would reinforce the comments about BARCOAT, I've had pretty major reactions in the past and BARCOAT has solved them.

Next one I do will have a coat whether I think it needs it or not, its not expensive and certainly not as expensive as having to re-flat and repaint the car afterwards!!

[Senile Old Git]

Its almost sounds like you know what ya doin!!!

Don 't be so silly ....... LOL