65 replies to this topic

[Southy]

It wouldnt be a Mini if it was fixed first time out, they are sent to try and test us always even on the simplest of things...

[mini 4o]

hi all
first thing i would look at is the fuel cap (should be green), does it make a swooshy sound when you lift it a little to let air in?

when you sit in the car and turn the ignition on can you hear the fuel pump build up pressure? you should clearly hear it as it lifts the pressure regulator, then the pump should stay a constant sound.

next pop along to a garage somewhere that can fit an in-line pressure gauge to check the fuel pressure is constant.

good luck
john

[nicksuth]

Cheers mate, I think I know where you're going here but it's not an air-lock problem, the tank is not suffering a vacuum.

I must say though, I've never heard the fuel pump pumping but then again at 50, you do suffer a lttle deafness eh!

I'll get my son to do the listening!!!

I think I'm going to bite the bullet and get the adjustable pressure regulator fitted in place of the standard fixed one?

[nicksuth]

Just a thought, but could it be the CAT? It only recently passed it's MOT (sailed through) but if the CAT was on it's last legs (or paws, sorry) could this cause the problem?

[nicksuth]

...also always a good hint in case of rought running MPI (and no other reason can be found):

The Rover Bulletin re. MPI Engine Loom Failiure

You will find the mentioned Ground Point in the Engine Loom, left of the Intake Manifold (if you stand in front of the Engine).
A bunch of 5 thin pink cables with a black stripe are connected together and covered by some isolating tape.

Those cables are sensor ground. They're providing ground for water temp sensor, intake air temp sensor, lambda sensor, throttle position senor and manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor. If this becomes faulty, you see a number of weird effects, but all of them related to those sensors.

BR
Ralf

The only one I can find is this one>>>>>>>>>>>

[attachment=75352:DSC00315.JPG]

left hand side bulkhead/inner wing just behind tower bolt position. You can just see the ECU at the bottom.

[nicksuth]

See attached from Mini Manual. I'll check and re-earth them all later next week just to be sure?

[attachment=75355:Earth_Po...Location.JPG][attachment=75357:Earth_Points_Photo.J
PG][attachment=75356:Earth_Points_List.JPG]

[tmsmini]

Although this bulletin is for SPi, the concept may apply to an MPi also. I recently had my MPi engine rebuilt and after a period where it seems it should have adapted, it was still running rough. Using the ACR4 and Rover 3 pod, I ran the stepper reset procedure, even though I made no adjustment, the final step is reset adaptive values(or something like that). After that the car has been running much better, even though some of the readings from the ACR4 seem out of spec. I find no other menu item in the ACR4 to reset adaptive values for the MPi.
http://www.tmsmini.c...lletin_0012.pdf Sprocket had posted this bulletin awhile back in another thread.

Did you take any readings after you replaced the O2 sensor? I am curious about that as i am trying to interpret the values i am getting from my ACR4.

Terry

[Southy]

Just a thought, but could it be the CAT? It only recently passed it's MOT (sailed through) but if the CAT was on it's last legs (or paws, sorry) could this cause the problem?

Does the engine seem to get rather warm and stay warm for prolonged periods after the car has been turned off?
As this was what happened with my mates, the exhaust heat sheild near the CAT recored at 350 degrees and was smoldering it was that hot, all due to the CAT being blocked.

[nicksuth]

Sorry but no readings taken since work carried out (I don't have the reader equipment). I have one or two things to change (MAP and Throttle Pot) then I will see if Icklemini will give me an hour of his time???

[nicksuth]

Just a thought, but could it be the CAT? It only recently passed it's MOT (sailed through) but if the CAT was on it's last legs (or paws, sorry) could this cause the problem?

Does the engine seem to get rather warm and stay warm for prolonged periods after the car has been turned off?
As this was what happened with my mates, the exhaust heat sheild near the CAT recored at 350 degrees and was smoldering it was that hot, all due to the CAT being blocked.

Yes, it does seem to stay hot for a long while (or it seems that way when your wanting to get your hand back down the back of the block!!! - might just be as "the watched kettle"?).

What can you do to check the CAT? (I was thinking of buying the link pipe just as a test).

[Southy]

to be honest i dont know how you can test them, but i spoke to someone and told him about my mates problems with his, staying Hot for long periods after turning engine off, slight misfire and rough running and the car wouldnt pass any emissions test at MOT time and the heat shield getting really hot and he said straight away the CAT is blocked so we swapped it for a working spare and it managed to just pass the emissions test.

[tmsmini]

There is another set of earth connectors behind the coolant expansion tank

http://www.tmsmini.c...arth_header.pdf

[nicksuth]

Okay, decision made, I've ordered a link pipe to take the CAT out of the equation, if this does not work after changing the MAP and POT I'll be looking for a BINI (well, maybe not?). >

[Sprocket]

Take the cat off and look at it through the holes, it should have a uniform honeycomb look about it. It should be an off white colour and you should be able to see daylight through it.

When was the fuel filter replaced, if it hasnt, change it. Otherwise the fuel regulator is a strong possability. The way to check that is by fitting a gauge.

Only other thing to consider is have the injectors ultrasonicaly cleaned, the fuel addatives that recon they clean the injectors, dont do much.

[nicksuth]

Take the cat off and look at it through the holes, it should have a uniform honeycomb look about it. It should be an off white colour and you should be able to see daylight through it.

When was the fuel filter replaced, if it hasnt, change it. Otherwise the fuel regulator is a strong possability. The way to check that is by fitting a gauge.

Only other thing to consider is have the injectors ultrasonicaly cleaned, the fuel addatives that recon they clean the injectors, dont do much.

Fuel Filter was replaced about 1500 miles ago but don't think the regulator was? I was advised to maybe look at an adjustable regulator (Colin at Southam Mini & Metro Centre) so it can be tweeked when on the roller, what do you reckon?

PS - what fuel pressure should the MPi run at, I thin I read somewhere that the SPi was 1 bar and the MPi was 4 bar?

One final question, I thought (was told) that the injector O rings (MKG100240 @ £1.65 each) were different from the fuel rail o rings (BAU5325 @ £3.62 each), it must be very "subtle" difference as they look identical when I put them side by side (or have I been conned?)