Supercharged K20a2 Vtec - Race Spec
#331
Posted 26 January 2010 - 09:05 PM
Good work matey projectkeep going it will be worth it when done.
Temp probe works well there. Exactly the same as I did mine.Took me an age to sort out where I was going to put it.
As I said good work.
Will it be finished for the summer... If so come out to the nurburgring with me and mine and we can have a giggle. Took mine last year 3 days after finishing it. The attention it got was amazing. Got my mag feature out of it too.......
Rob
#332
Posted 27 January 2010 - 08:50 AM
I do plan to get over to the ring, I have a mate who is bang into the ring, he buys a season ticket & shares a tricked out scooby with his mate that lives in Luxembourg and they are getting 8:15 round it and he is always talking about getting the mini over there, plus my brothers into fast bikes and he plans to go over this year so need it ready for May time really - it is acheivable......I just need to extract the digit.
#333
Posted 27 January 2010 - 01:14 PM
#334
Posted 27 January 2010 - 04:40 PM
Just read the whole project and im speechless, truely amazing well done mate.
Thanks.
There are still a few bits I am holding back on that will help it stand out from the rest. Keep watching this space and I will post them up come the end of the project.
Saying that there are still some interesting bits to happen between now and then.
Going to get stuck right in over the weekend so hope to have plenty to report.
#335
Posted 01 February 2010 - 12:43 PM
I managed to strip off the supercharger and manifold and got to the heater matrix pipe that I wanted to remove. Not without its problems I hasten to add, you forget how much stuff needs unplugging before you can get the S/C off, also the fuel rail needs to come off, which allowed me to fit some braided lines to it - bling....
In my quest to delete the unwanted pipe I stumbled across a part that I had made that I forgot to post up on here. It is the connection between the vlave cover and the air intake. Some might disagree with what I have done and say that the only reason that you breathe the valve cover back into the air intake is for emissions. On the other side fo the coin a very good reason for breathing into the air intake is the same reason for a PCV valve (positive crankcase ventilation), it creates a vacuum for the rotating parts to work in, especially good for high revving engines.
Not much to look at but you get the idea:
So I took off the old solid pipe I have been going on about, I had a good measure up and then got designing a bung for it, I was thinking somehting similar to what you can buy from k-tuned.com but then I realised that there was a floor in my thinking as the filling of the coolant system is different to that of the civic and that currently the coolant is fed to the pipe that sits just outside the thermostat, so in theory the coooant will fill the front-back coolant lines and the radiator, however I am not 100% confident at its ability to fill the block. So I decided that the bung was now going to be a second filling point in the system. I drew up a design and got my good mate Stevie G to turn it up for me, while he was at it he also turned the bung for the rear of the block (heater matrix output from the block - M20x1.0). Utilising the o-ring that was on the original pipe I have got a second feed. All I need to do now is fit it into the thermostat housing, pilot drill a hole then tap it out to ensure it doenst pop out under pressure.......
Supercharger and manifold off and onto the bench:
Old Solid pipe removed from the equation:
New filler bung in its new shiny glory:
The new heater output bung, also in its new shiny glory (thanks to Mike at K-tuned for telling me the size of the threads, even the guys at Honda couldnt tell me):
And here they are ready to go in, I only offered them up as I have some other work needs doing before I install them:
The assault continues..................
#336
Posted 01 February 2010 - 12:53 PM
#337
Posted 02 February 2010 - 09:26 PM
Tonight saw me fettle the fitting for the filler/bung. All done by hand tools (minus the drill if you dont count that as a hand tool).
I have been searching the tinterweb and have found a few different solutions for this problem, none of them offering the filler option but a couple of companies that sell bungs with different ways of fixing them into place. My first choice would have been from k-tuned - CLICK ME FOR K-TUNED BUNG, the second was Rcrew Racing - CLICK ME FOR RCREW BUNG, SCROLL DOWN THE PAGE A LITTLE.
Both options were good, I particularly liked the K-tuned because it didnt rely on drillng through the thermostat housing, so that is the path I have chosen...........even if a little sideways in my attack.
I will let the pictures do the talking, because I could go on for hours...........................
#338
Posted 02 February 2010 - 09:48 PM
I find myself keep going over and reading your build diary and pictures to make sure im doing the things right on my build.
Its a very useful reference... Thank You
pitty she wont allow me to take the computer in the garage it would save me alot of running up and down stairs.
Keep up the good work
Cheers
Chris
#339
Posted 02 February 2010 - 10:02 PM
Lets hope I am doing it right, else we'll both be buggered......ha ha.......
There has been much learnt along the way with this, some of it might not pan out as planned but most should. I try to do as much research as possible before making a decision, the problem with the internet is there are too many self claimed experts that dont know sh!t............. I would like to take this oportunity to say that I do not think of myself as an expert in any way, I am just sharing my journey with the good people of the forum.
Lets see what tomorrow brings
Edited by cptkirk, 02 February 2010 - 10:03 PM.
#340
Posted 03 February 2010 - 09:48 PM
Tonight took me three hours to replace the front engine mount with the new Innovative mount, reason being - the new mount was an F-ing mile out when it came to lining up the holes, not only that but the mount is about 4mm wider than the old one and the old one was an interference fit.
First time in and I get the two top holes lined up and the bolt through the middle of the mount (with lots of smacking with a nylon head hammer because its so chuffin tight) to find that the bottom hole isnt wide enough for the bolt to go through because the monkey that fabbed them didnt weld the collar in the right place. So out it came (with a crow bar and a lot of swearing), hole drilled out allow bolt.
Second time in and I get the the two top holes lined up and the bolt through the middle of the mount (this time with a bit of silicone lubricant and minimal smacking) to find that the bottom holes is an effing mile out. So I try swinging on it with a bar but it wont budge so out it came again to ahve the hole made considerably wider, more of a rectanlge with radiused ends.
Third time in and got the two top holes lined up, couldnt get the bottom one so undid the two top ones, lined up the bottom ones, re-lined up the two top one and then couldnt get the middle hole lined up for ages, lifted the jack under the engine, gave it a few whacks, swore at it, gave it another whack and eventually got the thread started on the housing, once a few threads through it got the same hammer treatment.
Everything tightened up and its good to go, tomorrow night will see me try and swap out the rear mount, should be fun.
Any how enough of me rrrrranting on.......... I took a few snaps tonight, two of the new an old to show the difference, one of the hole where the mount lives and another of the mount in place, enjoy:
#341
Posted 10 February 2010 - 09:47 PM
Not as much as pain in the arse as the fwd mount but it was still telling trying to get the holes lined up, due mostly to the fact that the mounting plate on the frame didnt line up with the engine (3rd photo), not as much of a problem when your only dealing with normal mounts as they have lots of play in them.
Anyhoo, its in now, a few snaps to keep em happy:
#342
Posted 10 February 2010 - 09:52 PM
I had a few issues along the way with the fittings of the controller were it met the balance bar, so sent it of to Z's and they sent me back the right bit, only on its return the piping that holds the cable had been replaced with blue (was black - ideal), so rather than being a perpetual pain in the arse I thought I would sort it later, well later is now and I have sorted it. The beauty of heatshrink:
Was Blue
Now its black - again.....in a roundabout way......:
#343
Posted 10 February 2010 - 09:57 PM
What can I say, my smart little fix as shown earlier in the thread ended up fouling on the bottom of the intake manifold (fine if you havent got a Jackson Racing Supercharger on it). So I had to resort to drilling out the housing and bolting it into place as I simply didnt have any room or the mental energy to fix it any other way. I do hope the O-ring hasnt split (the last two did due to the new hole in the side), cant tell until the system is under pressure.
#344
Posted 10 February 2010 - 10:05 PM
Whilst I had the charger off I took the time to delete some other smaller coolant pipes, namely the two that lead to and from the throttle body, I have drilled out the two holes and tapped them out to 10mm, so if ever they were needed again they could easily be retro fitted.
These few photos only show the lower of the two pipes, the top one is drilled and tapped I am awaiting a 10mm grub screw to put in it:
First photo shows pipe mid hacking off:
Second shows cut down bolt in place:
Third shows how I managed to get the cut off end of the bolt into the hole, good old slot cut into the bolt and a flat headed screwdriver, finally a bit of loctite:
#345
Posted 10 February 2010 - 10:09 PM
As I strike one thing off the list one or two more go on it - will it ever end??????????
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