37 replies to this topic

[Sprocket]

pressing the throttle 10 times, is apparently how you reset the TPS, as they wear over time, and this lets the ECU know what values it gives for fully open, and fully closed

Really?!

Then why is it not mentioned in the Rover workshop manual.

I shall tell you why, you use the word 'apparently' which means you 'heard' it from some where else

The TPS only gives information on rate of acceleration and an idle condition, so as such doesnt need to be bang on accurate as long as it returns this information, it hardly affects the normal running of the engine unless it does not return this information at all, in which case its broken or disconnected.

I seem to remember you ripped out your EFI in favour of a carb quite some time ago

[yasan39]

Ok, i have a 93 SPI Cooper, which i have just rebuilt myself. Engine work was carried by Rob Walker.... However, having finally got the engine to run, it has a really rough idle..... i used to have an 84 City if i pulled the breather off whilst at idle it would rev up and down eventually it would stall. That is the exact problem my cooper has. it starts, rev's up and down, up and down etc... then stalls. i have checked the breathers and all are conected and don't seem to be leaking.. has anyone come across this before? in addition to this it is running really rich! i'm not sure if the two a related but it is begin to really anoy me..... any help would be much appreciated.

look in 2 you'r fuel pump

[dallara]

Allow me to share my experience with dodgy injection... I had a mitsubishi colt that ran all over the shop. half jackel and half hyde, all the diagnostics under the sun didnt help, but upon inspecting the lambda i noticed small discrepancies such as the threaded length. I checked up the brand name which was still readable off the side (it was fairly new, bought well before it was running bad) and it turned out it was a "universal" lambda sensor. they claimed it fitted everything from a 758cc subaru signet up to a 3 litre lexus, and everything in between. realisticly it must have been a wide band lambda sensor, but in the wrong heat etc. maybe it would give irratic readings. The reason i suggest it now is because the symptoms were similar, just on and off

[MiniFra]

Don't go and throw parts at the engine by guesing at it. Eliminate things and deduce the fault. Check every breather hose for wear and cracks including the breathers themselves for oily gloop then check the Vacuum sensing pipes for cracks in the end fittings, they're the ones that come off the back of the throttle body, blow them through as there should be no fuel in these, check them all right up to the ECU, check the fuel trap for the same, finaly Find somewhere to take the car and have it plugged into a diagnostic unit to check all the sensors are working within reasonable limits.

I would say there may be a fault with a sensor, if the ECU was duff then the engine wouldn't run, but if you find the MAP sensor faulty then you will have to renew the ECU as it is built in, electronics are normaly very reliable but are suceptable to moisture and voltage spikes(might be worth checking your voltage regulator on the alternator).

The ECU controls the fueling by comparing the reading from the lambda sensor, manifold vacuum (MAP)and throttle posission to its pre programed tables( this is the bit that can't be altered and where Superchips are taking advantage) after correcting air density by measuring air inlet temp, adjusts the fueling to suit. If any of these sensors are not functioning correctly then the fueling will be incorrect.

Also try powering down the ECU by unplugging it at the main connector for about 30 seconds then plug it back in and start the engine but don't rev it, let it idle for about 10 minuts for the ECU to learn the engine. Another thing I found was the K&N filters are a bugger, if you over tighten the jubalee clip it tends to pull the whole thing up after a time leaving a gap where the injector cable passes through the injector body.

Index the throttle.

Don't go and bin parts without first finding out the cause of the problem, not the symptom. Unfortunately for the ECU sensors you will have to take the car to a garage and have a diagnostics check, but even then you probibly know more about your engine than they do, so you will have to take the information ( not the mechanics opinion unless he can prove with out a doubt)and work it out yourself, like I said unfortunately you'll have to do this to get the information. I found mechanics that don't know you or the car to be a bit funny, they think you know less than them because you have taken your car to them to fix. I find this is happening more and more these days, thats why I choose to do virtualy everything myself when I can.

I found out some of this as I this week had similar problems, eratic idle, stalling on cold start idle and get this, backfiring into the inlet manifold. I found the problem to be fuel in the vacuum sensing pipe Connected to the ECU at the ECU end, this obviously was causing inacurate MAP readings. I had the whole injection system apart and found nothing else, powered the ECU down and restarted and everything's now fine.

Hope some of this may be of help.
=======================================
Excellent info but my car is misfiring and I replaced the manifold sensor, flywheel sensor and the relay module. The only thing not replaced is the ECU. Is it possible? Iit starts well but as sonn as you go up with the revs, start the misfiring with somoke tec...It si possible to drive but very annoying and it is nit pass the Tech. Control.
What else could it be?

Many thanks for any input. Cheers MiniFra

[gorditolindoleo]

hi my name is leo and im currently rstoring a mini model spi 95, the problem i have is when the car is warm it is having trouble starting. i found that if i put a bit of petrol in the throtle then it will start and work fine,if the engine is warm then the injection dosnt work very well. i have sent the injection to be cleaned. im quite sure that the fuel pump works fine, please could anyone help me or advise on a possible cause or solution. i dont have access to a diagnostic or no where the portal is as in italy nobody has the correct machine.

[Mattyboy]

Hi all I have been reeding these threads and thought someone may have some advice for me. I have a pre oct 1996 mini equinox and I have recently taken the engine out to do some welding on the bulk head. while I had it out I did the head gasket and cleaned up the valves ect. I have got the engine in again and I am now trying to get it started. I have connected all the wires again and there is power to the starter motor it turns over but the fuel pump is not firing up when I turn the ignition. I tested the file pump direct to the battery and its working so its not the pump its self. I have tested the wires all the way to the black relay box and when I put 12 volts to the wire that goes to the pump it works so the wiring to the pump is fine too. It also has no spark to the plugs either however I have power to the coil. I guessed it could be the relay box or the ecu but I am not sure. I took out the crank sensor and cleaned it and the connections I am at a bit of a loose end. Perhaps I have overlooked something when putting the engine back in any help is appreciated

cheers Matt

[Rick_Howarth]

when you say power down the ecu, do you have to dissconect the battery first then the ecu or just unplug the ecu?

[FlyingScot]

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Disconnect the battery

FS