41 replies to this topic

[pusb]

To remove the unit from the Mini....

 

This is after all the "clutter has been removed, radiator, carb, manifold starter ..... as per normal engine removal...

 

1) lift engine and swing across to the left hand side (left and right are always determined from the drivers seat) 

2) reach down and wriggle the RHS inner CV out from the diff side cover / gearbox, you will have to "break" the joint ie not cable tie rubber boot, but the clip holding the inner CV in to the gearbox.

3) drop it down under the gearbox

4) move engine across to the other side

5) wriggle the LHS inner CV out of the gearbox

drop it down as you lift the engine

6) remove speedo cable from transmission

 

Yes this works for auto as well, I have done them all like this for over 25 years, it leaves the car in a safe (ie no brakes, suspension or steering are affected, rollable condition.  easy

 

The reverse to re-fit.

 

It does sound easier that way.

 

This is the first time I've removed an engine though so I am dependent on what Haynes tells me!

[MRA]

Yes of course, no insult meant, it is after all a "Mini adventure" !

[Jmadry]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but did the extractor work?

[Northernpower]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but did the extractor work?

I used one and it's great. Just remember to put the box in reverse to give the correct alignment and take your time making sure the pin is moving the roll pin as you tighten up the extractor.

[Jmadry]

Thanks for the reply. Good to hear it worked. Unfortunately I can't seem to find any for sale currently.

[tiger99]

Try it in whatever gear works. I can't remember which to use. But you don't need to drive the pin right out, which may be what you need to know. It only needs to clear the inner rod, and I usually found that it remained in the top side of the coupling, ready to be driven back in.

As for tools, a flat-nosed pin punch is correct but I have never had any difficulty by just getting a carpenter's nail of suitable diameter (which are quite soft steel) and grinding or hacksaw in the point flat. But if it has been rusting in there for many years, you may need something harder.

You could actually make a pin pusher to get them out. Something like a G clamp with the moving piece replaced by a very short pin punch and the fixed jaw curved to seat on the coupling with a hole for the pin should do the job. Could be useful in difficult cases.

[Jmadry]

Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a go again in a day or two. Fingers crossed.

[Shaggy33]

Started similar topic the other day! Got the roll pins started in the collar off the car so hopefully gettig them back in will be a little easier. Will try the method with small screwdriver.
When I tried using m5 bolts instead of roll pin I could really select gears properly, think I had 1st, 2nd but could move lever across for 3 and 4th or reverse.
Got the kad quick shift so hope that's not the issue!

[MRA]

Started similar topic the other day! Got the roll pins started in the collar off the car so hopefully gettig them back in will be a little easier. Will try the method with small screwdriver.
When I tried using m5 bolts instead of roll pin I could really select gears properly, think I had 1st, 2nd but could move lever across for 3 and 4th or reverse.
Got the kad quick shift so hope that's not the issue!

 

Do you mean "could" or "couldn't" ?

Edited by MRA, 30 October 2016 - 10:36 AM.

[Shaggy33]

Sorry MRA been away for a few days. I meant couldn't, sorry!

[coopdog]

Thanks for the reply. Good to hear it worked. Unfortunately I can't seem to find any for sale currently.

I have one you can have if your close to me?

[Jmadry]

Cheers for the offer. In the end i bought the minispares roll pin punch tool. It worked a treat. Applied a bit of wd40 to the roll pin each day whilst i waited for the tool to arrive. Then got the car up on axle stands as before, selected reverse gear, chocked the rod against the casing with some wood and the roll pin came free after a few good hits with a lump hammer. Replaced the split gaitor. Then replaced the roll pin with a new one and put a zip tie through the middle as a fail safe. I'd recommend the minispares tool or any roll pin punch of the correct size, this is where i was going wrong in the 1st place, not using correct tool for the job. Still going to keep my eye out for an extractor though. 

Edited by Jmadry, 07 November 2016 - 08:20 PM.