41 replies to this topic

[Spider]

Reverse is the Gear to select, you'll also be less likely to bend the shaft too.

 

I've had a few over the years that have been really hard to get started, what I have done is ground up an old screw so that some of it can sit inside the roll pin but also some of it sits on top, kinda like an extension to it, but only about 1/8" (2 - 3 mm), then I've used Vice Grips on that to start the Pin off by pressing it, once it moves that first bit, they tend to come considerably easier.

[coopdog]

i had alot of trouble with mine, bought the correct punch and it worked brilliantly

 

 

now im using the quick release version and it took me about 30sec to get it off and the same with getting it back in

[jimmyH]

Great, thanks MS ! 

 

Ill try reverse and let you know. 

[Spider]

Just one more tip, I usually use a Lump hammer to get them started, not to hit it any harder, but being heavier, it's 'punch' has more impact force.

[Alex_B]

One thing to watch out for with the proper tool from minispares, it is quite soft and mushrooms easily which can jam up in the inner bore of the shaft. I ended up having to file it down so it fit again after a hammerin' 

[Icey]

One thing to watch out for with the proper tool from minispares, it is quite soft and mushrooms easily which can jam up in the inner bore of the shaft. I ended up having to file it down so it fit again after a hammerin' 

 

I've got one and found the same, very poor quality metal but it does work, just needs to be reshaped after every use.

[pusb]

Resurrecting an old thread here I know, but really struggling to the selector pin out.
I have the correct tool from minispares, but spent half hour hitting it this morning and nothing happened.
There seems to much movement in the whole selector shaft, so the pin doesn't get the full force.
Has anyone found that wedging something behind the shaft to stop it moving helps?

[MRA]

This is just magic.....

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...T8AAOSwe-FU-i~T

[pusb]

This is just magic.....

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...T8AAOSwe-FU-i~T

 

That looks great! Does it really work?

 

I wish I had seen that before!

[MRA]

I think it does, but the proof is in the pudding, I'm ordering one for myself to test.

[pusb]

I think it does, but the proof is in the pudding, I'm ordering one for myself to test.

 

I've just ordered one myself.

 

Will move on to withdrawing the pot joints for now

[MRA]

 

I think it does, but the proof is in the pudding, I'm ordering one for myself to test.

 

I've just ordered one myself.

 

Will move on to withdrawing the pot joints for now

 

Are you pulling the pot joints out of the diff side covers ?  (this is the correct method) but you don't need to drop the hubs or any other nasty things like that....

 

I hope you are not stripping the pot joints to get it out ?  this is a bad idea, because your pot joints are a highly toleranced part and if you get the rotation out you will get accelerated wear within the pot joint

Edited by MRA, 12 March 2016 - 04:33 PM.

[pusb]

 

 

I think it does, but the proof is in the pudding, I'm ordering one for myself to test.

 

I've just ordered one myself.

 

Will move on to withdrawing the pot joints for now

 

Are you pulling the pot joints out of the diff side covers ?  (this is the correct method) but you don't need to drop the hubs or any other nasty things like that....

 

I hope you are not stripping the pot joints to get it out ?  this is a bad idea, because your pot joints are a highly toleranced part and if you get the rotation out you will get accelerated wear within the pot joint

 

I just knocked the pot joints out of the diff housing.

 

I couldn't do it without dropping the hubs though, which means I think I need to replace the ball joints rubber bits now

[MRA]

 

 

 

I think it does, but the proof is in the pudding, I'm ordering one for myself to test.

 

I've just ordered one myself.

 

Will move on to withdrawing the pot joints for now

 

Are you pulling the pot joints out of the diff side covers ?  (this is the correct method) but you don't need to drop the hubs or any other nasty things like that....

 

I hope you are not stripping the pot joints to get it out ?  this is a bad idea, because your pot joints are a highly toleranced part and if you get the rotation out you will get accelerated wear within the pot joint

 

I just knocked the pot joints out of the diff housing.

 

I couldn't do it without dropping the hubs though, which means I think I need to replace the ball joints rubber bits now

 

You could if you knew how to....  when you know you will think, wow that is really easy

[MRA]

To remove the unit from the Mini....

 

This is after all the "clutter has been removed, radiator, carb, manifold starter ..... as per normal engine removal...

 

1) lift engine and swing across to the left hand side (left and right are always determined from the drivers seat) 

2) reach down and wriggle the RHS inner CV out from the diff side cover / gearbox, you will have to "break" the joint ie not cable tie rubber boot, but the clip holding the inner CV in to the gearbox.

3) drop it down under the gearbox

4) move engine across to the other side

5) wriggle the LHS inner CV out of the gearbox

drop it down as you lift the engine

6) remove speedo cable from transmission

 

Yes this works for auto as well, I have done them all like this for over 25 years, it leaves the car in a safe (ie no brakes, suspension or steering are affected, rollable condition.  easy

 

The reverse to re-fit.