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Driveshaft Well And Truely Stuck!


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#1 edi57

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 08:39 PM

Right, I've been trying to remove the passenger side driveshaft to replace an oil seal. I removed the other side without a problem (CV boot had split).

I've got the right tool which I've been wacking with a lump hammer. As from the pic below, I have even got a wedge (tyre lever) in from the top to try and help out. It still doesn't want to come out. I've rotated the driveshaft a number of times, and re-tried shifting it, but still no luck.

Posted Image


This pic shows as above, but with the proper tool in place. I have been hitting the tool hard (on the large flat surfaces) with a lump hammer (I'm working on my garage floor, not in a pit or on ramps unfortunately) and it just doesn't want to split.

Posted Image


Two questions.

1. Any other suggestions on how to shift it using the current method?

2. If still no luck, will undoing the four blots around the pot joint area of the gearbox be an alternative solution (without messing about with the gearbox in a big way).

This is a 998cc Auto Mini by the way. 1983ish.

#2 Retro_10s

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 09:01 PM

I don't think undoing the diff sides will help.

Funny one this, not sure...., I split one recently and it was stubborn managed to pull out eventually. Is the tool shifting it at all or is the pot staying fully engaged?

#3 edi57

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 09:05 PM

The tool has shifted it a few MM. I think something dodgy must be going on with the circlip inside. My only current thought is to get the suspension back together, take it down to my local garage to get it onto their ramps so that I can take a good swing at the tool.

I'd rather not have to do that though.

#4 Retro_10s

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 09:07 PM

I was going to suggest that the circlip was perhaps binding quite hard, maybe even getting squished a bit. Have you tried getting someone to turn the joint whilst you give it some with the hammer?

#5 edi57

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 09:10 PM

I've not tried getting someone to turn it while hammering. But I have hammered then turned, hammered then turned etc.

I'll put that on the list to try tomorrow.

#6 Retro_10s

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 09:11 PM

might be worth hammering it inwards a couple of taps, might shock the circlip free,...

#7 edi57

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 09:14 PM

Ah that's actually a very good idea!

To Try Tomorrow

1. Hammer driveshaft in to try and shock circlip
2. Get someone to turn driveshaft while hammering

#8 Ethel

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 09:24 PM

They usually pop fairly easily, being as they live in a bath of oil. I'd be more worried about damaging the gear case. Undoing the end cover won't help, taking the diff off the gearbox is the only other way to get it off the car. I use a big chisel as a wedge between the box and joint, at least you can hammer at it more easily.

#9 edi57

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 09:27 PM

I've used several big chisels...I'll have to take a photo of the selection of tools I was using. Personally I thought that I had tried everything useful.

I have been as careful as a can with the gearcase being ally.

#10 Waffs1984

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Posted 06 August 2008 - 07:33 AM

I'd definately get somebody else to turn the wheel round while you apply contant leverage to the pot, it will all of a sudden "pop!" and come out making you wonder how it ever got stuck in the firstplace! This has worked for me in the past so give it a go!

Matt.

#11 998dave

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Posted 06 August 2008 - 09:36 AM

I tend to attack mine from above with a big crow bar, and some wiggling, rather then a hammer. But then that's easier without the carb/manifolds in the way.

Dave

#12 Pauly

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Posted 06 August 2008 - 06:27 PM

Had the same problem, get the tool and hold it in place, then instead of doing large hits with the hammer do quick hard hits and it should pop out, took a few minutes of doing this to get mine out, probably a strong snap ring thats the cause.

Paul.




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