10 replies to this topic

[cowboy]

< EDIT: Cowboy's photos have gone and he's no longer active on the forum. Scroll down to Post #11 for a guide with Photos >

 

here is an easy step by step guide to changing a radiator in your mini


should this ever happen to yours


tools required

7/16 af spanner
7/16 af 1/4 drive socket and ratchet
7mm socket with long extensions with 1/4 drive screwdriver (or a long flat screwdriver)

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Edited by Spider, 16 August 2022 - 02:45 AM.

[cowboy]

STEP 1 removing the hoses and draining coolant


drain the radiator, this can be done in a few ways, but by undoing the bottom rad hose clamp and then removing the hose from the radiator is the way i ,ve done it, (ensure you have a container under the car to chatch the old coolant and ensure its desposed of propperlly)

then undo the top hose clamp and remove the top hose..

STEP 2

now its time to undo the bolts holing the radiator to the fan cowling, remove the rear two bolts marked

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[cowboy]

then undo the two front ones

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[cowboy]

you can then lift out the radiator

done here by nicholas (whos 8)

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[cowboy]

you can then refit the radiator,

helpful tip , when the radiator is in place only put the front top bolt in, but not all the way leave it a bit loose, so you can move the radiator a little in the cowling, then its easier to put the bottom radiator hose on, gives you more room to get your hand down the small gap and manovour the hose onto the rad..

then put the top hose on and tighten the clamps, put the 4 bolts back in and tighten, i've allways found this tool ideal for doing up the bottom rad hose clamp, a 1/4 drive screwdriver from halfords with extensions and a 7mm socket, you can also put a ratchet on it to finish tightening the clamp up (dont want that baby leaking)

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•  rad_change_7.JPG   113.8K   15 downloads

[cowboy]

final step is to fit the overflow pipe, and top up the rad with coolant, and then your off again...

hope this helps,,


Difficulties you can get into whendoing this as some of you may know,

1, the bolts holding the radiator to the cowling may snap, (not a problem if your changing the rad)

2, the bolts round of, the back ones are the worst for this

3, they just wont budge.

then you have to remove the fan cowling complete with the radiator, sorry i dont have pictures for this, but there is a bolt that goes through the engine mount at the bottom of the cowling, remove this bolt along with the bracket on the termostate housing and you can remove the cowling aswell....

[Miniman]

lol could have done with this today while working on miniman5s mini, looks good

[Guess-Works.com]

Close and Pinned.... Nice one Cowboy

[finch661]

pictures are no longer working

[Frank the Tank]

Don't really need pictures for this.

I used this and the Haynes about a month ago and had no problems.

[Spider]

As the pictures from Cowboy's post have gone, I'll offer up a Guide I put together some time back

 

 

Spider’s Radiator Easy Out

Now I know that some of you guys have your own way of removing and refitting radiators and I'm sure they all work.

This is one that does come up a bit. I've read loads of 'how to's' on the internet, they all mostly seem similar, but I haven't seen any that has pictures.

This is how I do it.

NOTE that this is an Australian Clubbie that has the Australian LH Engine Steady and has also been fitted with an 1100 (ADO16) Radiator.


1) Drain the Radiator, not 100% important, but if you can, why not.



Here, I’m undoing the drain plug from the radiator lower tank, you can just see the spanner!

Sketch of the underside of the Radiator, just to show where the drain plug is





Place a catch pan under the car. You won’t get it all, but you’ll get most!


2) Remove the top radiator hose






3) Undo and remove the 2 bolts in the top radiator mounting bracket that go in to the Thermostat housing






4) Undo and remove the 2 Left Hand Engine mount (the one under the Radiator) to subframe bolts





If the bolts spin, you can hold them by getting another spanner up here





push the bolts out, sometimes they may even need a tap




5) Put a jack under the LH side of the sump and jack the engine up just a little to take the weight of the engine



You’ll see the engine mount just come away from the subframe




6) Loosen but DON’T remove the lower engine mounting bracket bolt



You can usually get a socket on a long extension in through here




7) Continue to jack the engine as high as it will go. On a Clubbie, you’ll see the top bolt through the body opening next to the number plate. If you remove the grill on a Roundie or Moke, you’ll see it.



Remove that top bolt




8) Remove the screws that hold the TOP only of the Radiator Cowling in place. Most cars have 3 screws at the front and 2 at the back. This car has been modified and used bolts.



Rear bolts




9) Remove the top radiator cowling. Should just lift out, some need a jiggle.




10) Remove the fan. I like to do this to avoid damaging the core, it’s only 4 bolts



And there is plenty of room to get your hand and a spanner in there



Careful when taking the fan right off, it usually has some spacers in there. This one has one big fat spacer.




11) Undo and disconnect the Heater Hose (if fitted). Some connect, like this one, to the Bottom hose and the later (Australian) Clubbies & Mokes connect to the front of the Radiator. either way, it needs to come off.




12) Undo the Bottom Radiator hose from the Water Pump (This one has the Australian LH Engine steady fitted).





Bit of a wriggle



And off she comes




13) That bolt we left in the lower engine mounting bracket, now we take that one out




14) Then we lift the Radiator out!



Easy as!






Installation

Installation - as they so often say - is the reverse of the above. One small tip though, before you start re-fitting it, make sure the holes in the pulley on the water pump are still lined up. Easy to sort now, then when the Radiator is in.