14 replies to this topic

[mk3 Cooper S]

I am having a bit of hassle with a front wheel bearing.

Can someone confirm the torque setting for the castle nut and re confirm the routine of setting the bearing after a stripdown. I just can't seem to get it right now.

[rozzer!]

I am having a bit of hassle with a front wheel bearing.

Can someone confirm the torque setting for the castle nut and re confirm the routine of setting the bearing after a stripdown. I just can't seem to get it right now.

tight! with a scaffold tube! never had a front bearing problem yet!

[Jammy]

Are you using taper (Timkin) bearings or ball bearings. The torquing up procedure is different for both.

[Jammy]

tight! with a scaffold tube! never had a front bearing problem yet!

Thats not the methodolgy you used for the clutch taper boss was it?!

[mk1leg]

Hub nut is 150 lbs torque .....................

[Jammy]

Hub nut is 150 lbs torque .....................

Depending on whether it uses 1 split pin or two.

And never untighten the hub nut to get the split pin in the castle nut, always tighten more.

[minivanman]

If it is the one with the single split pin hole, the basic way to do it is get it as tight as possible, then get a monster breaker bar on it and turn it a little until you can get the split pin through. Works for me!


Helps if you have the right tools as well - 3/4 drive bar and a "thingy" to lock the hub so you can give the nut some welly.

[mk3 Cooper S]

Are you using taper (Timkin) bearings or ball bearings. The torquing up procedure is different for both.

Taper type. Not sure that you just bo^^ock them up as tight as possible as you can get away with with the roller type.

[Jammy]

I believe with the taper type your meant to torque them up the specific torque setting (150 lbl/ft sounds right), without the bearing spacer. Then undo them, place the bearing spacer in and re-torque them.

[mk3 Cooper S]

I believe with the taper type your meant to torque them up the specific torque setting (150 lbl/ft sounds right), without the bearing spacer. Then undo them, place the bearing spacer in and re-torque them.

Now I'm confussed.
Do you mean the bearing spacer or the taper splitwasher?
If need to refit the spacer that requires romoving the outer bearing doesn't it?

[GraemeC]

Torque to 150 lb/ft with a large flat washer (that sit ontp drive flange, not in it) under the nut and no split conical washer.
Remove nut, replace flat washer with conical washer and re-torque to 150 lb/ft.
Further tighten until castleations and split pin hole are aligned and replace split pin.

Job done!

[Jammy]

Sorry, didn't word my last post very well at all!

[Guess-Works.com]

There is a torque figure for these items for a reason, not tighten as hard as you can, you'll either damage the bearing, thread on the CV or the nut... the latter two could cost your life when the wheel and disk fall off at speed...

Procedure as GC describes, and torque is 150lbft for CV's with TWO holes, and 193lbft for those with ONE.

[Chris_9866]

Are you also supposed to replace the nuts after you have used them once, or are they not strech nuts

[mk3 Cooper S]

Torque to 150 lb/ft with a large flat washer (that sit ontp drive flange, not in it) under the nut and no split conical washer.
Remove nut, replace flat washer with conical washer and re-torque to 150 lb/ft.
Further tighten until castleations and split pin hole are aligned and replace split pin.

Job done!

Thanks GC.
Stripped it down today and I think that I may have wear on the end of the drive flange. It apears to have a raised edge on the outer edge.
I wonder if this may have caused it to relax?
Any way I have greased it(it was quite dry) and reassembled as you recomended but not been able to test yet.

Is a little wear on the drive flange par for the course?

Cheers