A quick one.
Is it safe to remove the dizzy cap and leaving the battery connected?

Dizzy Cap Removal
Started by
RetroCosworth
, Sep 18 2011 02:37 PM
6 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 18 September 2011 - 02:37 PM
#2
Posted 18 September 2011 - 02:47 PM
yes
#3
Posted 18 September 2011 - 04:54 PM
Of course, there is no power to the disributor until the ignition is switched on. In fact, on the points-type dizzys, you take the cap off, switch on the ignition and 'flick' the points to check for a spark.
#4
Posted 19 September 2011 - 09:31 PM
Sorted. Thanks for the help!
#5
Posted 20 September 2011 - 03:22 AM
This is kinda related to this topic, at least the closest i can find. I have no spark at the points and its a brand new coil, what could cause this?
#6
Posted 21 September 2011 - 12:58 AM
1. Switch on ignition and check for volts at coil. If OK go to 2. If not, check wiring from ignition switch.
2. Switch off ignition. Pop off distributor cap, engage 2nd gear and rock car until points are closed.
3. Check for volts at distributor lead (between lead and earth/chassis). If OK go to 4. If no volts, check/replace lead between coil and distributor.
4. Disconnect lead from distributor. If you gently touch the ends back together, you should see a spark. If you get a spark, reconnect lead and go to 5. If not, repeat but earth wire to chassis. This will point to a problem with the points.
5. With your fingernail, gently open the points, you again should see a spark. If not this is where your problem lies. You will need to double check your points installation to ensure that they are fully insulated and only the moving arm is making an earth when it contacts the fixed portion.
If you are in any doubt, switch off ignition disconnect lead to distributor and using a meter with a continuity function (beeper), connect between the lead and body of the distributor. With the points closed, you will get a beep. If you open the points, the beep will stop (if everything is OK). If it does not, the problem lies with the points being incorrectly fitted. Double check and retest until "Beep" test works. Problem solved!!
Keep us posted on the outcome.
2. Switch off ignition. Pop off distributor cap, engage 2nd gear and rock car until points are closed.
3. Check for volts at distributor lead (between lead and earth/chassis). If OK go to 4. If no volts, check/replace lead between coil and distributor.
4. Disconnect lead from distributor. If you gently touch the ends back together, you should see a spark. If you get a spark, reconnect lead and go to 5. If not, repeat but earth wire to chassis. This will point to a problem with the points.
5. With your fingernail, gently open the points, you again should see a spark. If not this is where your problem lies. You will need to double check your points installation to ensure that they are fully insulated and only the moving arm is making an earth when it contacts the fixed portion.
If you are in any doubt, switch off ignition disconnect lead to distributor and using a meter with a continuity function (beeper), connect between the lead and body of the distributor. With the points closed, you will get a beep. If you open the points, the beep will stop (if everything is OK). If it does not, the problem lies with the points being incorrectly fitted. Double check and retest until "Beep" test works. Problem solved!!
Keep us posted on the outcome.
Edited by moss6273, 21 September 2011 - 12:58 AM.
#7
Posted 21 September 2011 - 10:59 PM
Forgot to mention that every time you ground the coil, if the HT lead from the coil is also close to earth, you should get a spark. This will prove the coil.
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