Iron Puzzle & Fish & Chips
#46
Posted 21 September 2008 - 05:04 PM
#47
Posted 21 September 2008 - 05:40 PM
SP-VP3:
source 1: 268/272°, lift: .312 / .319
source 2: 286/286°, lift: .319 / .319
People say, it revs from 2500 to over 7000.
With a larger capacity, like 1380, it may start from 2000.
So i expect it do be driveable below 2500, and with gaining power from 2300 to 7000, something like this.
Application is "Max road" - whatever that means
If it turns out to be too sharp for my purpose, I'm changing it.
But I think it's a good choice
Regards,
Jan
#48
Posted 21 September 2008 - 06:42 PM
Andrew
#49
Posted 24 September 2008 - 03:58 PM
lagerzieher.jpg 74.46K 47 downloads
Made a loud *BANG* as it went loose, making me think I wasted the puller
Another very usefull tool!
And I pumped a fair amount of grease (don't know if 'Mike Sander's' is known in the UK? It's 'the' best anti-corrosion grease available!) into the sills today, to prevent rust.
It's a mess to handle the hot grease (needs to be liquid to be sprayed) and you need to be *effing* quick before it cooles down and sets which jamms the probe... But I think it's woth it! In summer you can wath the grease move, it creeps in every corner, even against gravity! Amazing stuff!
fett1.jpg 33.48K 12 downloads
Hand powered pump and probe I used.
No professional equipment but works quite good.
fett2.jpg 112.15K 43 downloads
And that's why you should cover the ground with a foil:
fett3.jpg 74.25K 30 downloads
(And not at least you can pick the grease up easily and melt it again when using a foil )
Cheers,
Jan
Edited by Asphalt, 24 September 2008 - 04:03 PM.
#50
Posted 02 October 2008 - 09:59 PM
By pure accident I looked at the second idler gear again - and noticed some pitting on it's journal.
Another case for the bin
Got the third idler gear today...
Here's a pic for you with all three stages of damage:
- Broken teeth
- Pitting
- No damage
rad_sammlung.jpg 92.96K 52 downloads
cheers,
Jan
#51
Posted 20 October 2008 - 08:18 PM
One swivel pin had a bit of play and 'cause I used non-original ones last time I thought it was about time to replace them all.
First surprise:
I found two different qualitties of Rover (or seemingly Rover) items.
This pic shows them.
1: lapped in original swivel pin,
2: untouched low quality one,
3: 14k miles old aftermarket swivel pin, not lapped in when fitted,
4: Good quality Rover swivel pin, looking almost like the lapped one from new
bolzen_vergleich.jpg 216.83K 21 downloads
It's always adviseble to lapp the swivels in.
It increases durability to a big extend. Untouched swivels have an comparably uneven surface which supports the load only on parts of the swivel's surface.
Lapping them in makes the surface even and the swivels take the load on every point on the surface, thus wear is reduced/less play arises making them live longer.
I used an old heater hose I attached with a smal socket to the akku drill to lapp the swivels in
No damage to the tap and easy to handle.
bolzen_vergleich4.jpg 49.95K 28 downloads
Second surprise was, that the two qulitys of swivels had no groove for the grease to pass the swivel,
which is absoolutely neccesary for lubrication!
Especially when lapped in, the grease has no chance of reaching the upper part of the swivel, covered by the big nut and greasing is a real pain in the a... arm
So what to do? Take the Dremel and make a groovy groove.
It's sufficient to remove some 1/10th.
bolzen_vergleich3.jpg 32.33K 28 downloads
And I discovered two other very anoying problems with my suspension:
The lower arm's bushes are worn very badly after just 5000 miles:
futschebuchse.jpg 94.31K 13 downloads
futschebuchse2.jpg 62.67K 10 downloads
You can easily see that they wore only on one side.
My conclusion is: the adjustable tie rods add too much load to these bushes.
I'm going to try the off-set poly bushes from Minispares now.
The second problem is again low quality.
EBC green stuff brake pads. They stand over the disc, not a big issue (but a bigger lip fo unused brake pad could couse some troubles, when both pads colide and stop the brakes from doing what they should) but I'm not happy with it.
ebc_doof.jpg 56.28K 7 downloads
At least there are no (obvious) problems with the new track rod ends:
spurstangenkopf.jpg 50.47K 7 downloads
I fitted a pair of new ones, cause the old ones were realy old and I'm not comfy with track rod ends of unknown age and had a little play in the steering. If new track rod ends don't sort it, I need to look real close to the steering rack (no play anywhere a year ok so *should* be fine, thought).
My Momos are still at the sandblaster's... Haste makes waste
That's it for now.
Waiting for my AAU1365...
If the new bushes arrive on wedensday, I maybe can get a new TÜV (like MOT, but compared to your MOT it's VERY stern!).
And as soon as the AU1365 arrives - take out the engine and start the rebuild/build of the new. Ah - no, wait: need to earn some money before
Cheers,
Jan
#52
Posted 21 October 2008 - 09:51 PM
what are they called so i can spend hours looking for them.
sweet car
#53
Posted 21 October 2008 - 10:03 PM
I WANT YOUR MOMOS PLEASE
what are they called so i can spend hours looking for them.
sweet car
They'r just called Momos.
Either 5x10" (like mine) or 6x10".
And NOOOOOOOO!!!
I'm NEVER gona part with them (unless I have a set of 6x10" in my actual hands!).
Watch eBay France!
I've seen some sets pop up there.
Got mine aswell from eBay.fr.
Thanks & cheers,
Jan
#54
Posted 24 October 2008 - 05:52 PM
Remember: 5k miles on them!
They'r so badly worn, that the arms got damaged byt the metal sleeves (which didn't have any hold in the rubbers!!)!
And this with only 3° castor angle each side... I'm gutted...
Completely cr@p, if you ask me... Will see how the offset bushes do.
Cheers,
Jan
#55
Posted 30 October 2008 - 10:05 PM
I found two different informations:
SP-VP3:
source 1: 268/272°, lift: .312 / .319
source 2: 286/286°, lift: .319 / .319
People say, it revs from 2500 to over 7000.
Got this from APTfast:
Lobe center angle 102.5/105.5, duration@ 0.020" In./Ex. 268-272, cam lobe lift 0.312-0.319, lash clearance (hot - max) 16 In. /18 Ex., time to: (A.T.D.C.) #1 inlet 102-103, best rocker ratio 1.5, Spring seat pressure 67, fully open pressure 189, Installed height 1.34-1.36, spring part number VPS-02, Retainer part number VSR-01S, RPM range 2200-7200, Max. RPM 7600, idle Characteristics slighty lumpy, suggested comp. ratio 9.0-10.4.
Sound like what I want!
Today I went to collect a Cooper RSP washer bottle and heater cable.
And found, by pure luck, an Innocenti B38 grill surround with good patina; the way I like it the most:
neuer_grill_rand.jpg 53.78K 24 downloads
Woohoo - good day!!
Cheers,
Jan
#56
Posted 30 October 2008 - 11:28 PM
Today I went to collect a Cooper RSP washer bottle and heater cable.
And found, by pure luck, an Innocenti B38 grill surround with good patina; the way I like it the most:
neuer_grill_rand.jpg 53.78K 24 downloads
Woohoo - good day!!
Nice score! Should look nice that grill like.
#57
Posted 30 October 2008 - 11:36 PM
Nice score! Should look nice that grill like.
Thanks! And indeed it does:
My old sorround got damaged during an accident (first post here thought).
I'm lucky the plastic grill survived, they are now VERY hard to find with ok holes and without beeing mangled to accomodate the external bonnet-release
*Knocks on wood*
Cheers,
Jan
#58
Posted 31 October 2008 - 09:44 AM
#59
Posted 31 October 2008 - 03:14 PM
looks great
Thanks! Love that grille! It's so different, but still verry decent
---
Todays work: applied geometries
I made my own computer-supported wheels alignement test rig.
Well... The poor mans version
A sprit level, some pieces of wood, sea-fishing line, two folding rules, a rubber and and a special software tool.
(Credits for the software go to 'kaptn pat' from german mini-forum!!)
Ready for setup. The aim is 1.50mm - I got 1.55mm which isn't that bad with my method of measuring.
messstand1.jpg 130.34K 28 downloads
messstand2.jpg 119.65K 31 downloads
messstand3.jpg 115.66K 49 downloads
And - naa. None of my washer bottles fits.
Exept my 'PowerBar' bottle - but I don't like it anymore and it rattles 'cause it's lose and... Hmm.
powerbar.jpg 115.22K 18 downloads
Regards,
Jan
Edited by Asphalt, 31 October 2008 - 03:15 PM.
#60
Posted 14 November 2008 - 11:49 AM
But not in the first attempt...
Remember the extremely worn out lower arm bushes?
Either they caused the toe-out to be far to wide, or the garage I payed 90€ (equals 77 pound!) messed it up
anyways - the brand new A008s were worn badly on one side - no chance for TÜV.
Anyways, got a set of brand new A008s for 43€ (38 pound ) and got the TÜV badge
Another issue was that the right rear wheel bearing had too much play at the first attempt.
So I changed it as well as the tyres - and no play. Driving 15miles to the TÜV station - they had exessive play again
(They accepted it and I got new TÜV)
New hub, new thrustwasher, new bearing sorted it for now.
New hub 'cause I destroyed the old by removing the bearing's cowl, new thrustwasher as the old was badly worn.
And that was the cause, I'm guessing. First attempt of bearing change it was quite dark and I didn't see it, thought.
Next :
Mr. Haynes is a liar!!
I ordered new choke seals for my HIF44 some time ago, to be prepared for choke-seal fail (it's now the time all the HIFs start to break down due to the choke's o-ring failing).
And grande surprise: mr. Haynes says o-ring + paper seal. My HIF says: two o-rings!
HIF:
Haynes:
And guess what? This was the first time I used the Haynes manual...
And, as you can see, it doesn't tell you about a little filter ontop og the needle valve as well:
At least the carb is as new from inside, which means I don't have to clean any nasty dirt out
And that depends to a certain extend to the needle vlave little filter, I'm guessing.
[img=http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/2342/hif6no8.jpg]
The jet shows a bit of wear - so I'll get a new jet.
And while I wait for a set of gaskets ( ) and the jet, I'm going to use 'the monster'.
Jet:
[img=http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/9713/hif5kx9.jpg]
The monster:
[img=http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1020/hif7mx8.jpg]
A HS4, compiled of the 'best' scrap parts I had in my cellar
Hope it works OK with the rich Clubman non-GT 1275 needle (AAR) and standard airfilter...
New hub, NOS Austin-Rover, fully covered in sticky, resined old oil:
[img=http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8663/nabehintenzw9.jpg]
I love NOS parts! At least they last!
It's not the cr/\p you get nowadays...
Regards,
Jan
Edited by Asphalt, 14 November 2008 - 11:50 AM.
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