
Fuel Gauge Not Reading
Started by
MateyTheMini
, Feb 04 2011 10:20 AM
5 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 04 February 2011 - 10:20 AM
Hi there TMF!
Me again, my fuel gauge is not giving me a reading as to how much fuel i have in the car so i'm having to dip the fuel tank.
Whilst i was at Bingley i bought a fuel desender, with the float that goes into the tank and it still isn't reading.
Does anybody know what may be the problem this this?
Thanks
Callum
Me again, my fuel gauge is not giving me a reading as to how much fuel i have in the car so i'm having to dip the fuel tank.
Whilst i was at Bingley i bought a fuel desender, with the float that goes into the tank and it still isn't reading.
Does anybody know what may be the problem this this?
Thanks
Callum
#2
Posted 04 February 2011 - 12:12 PM
Voltage stabiliser behind the clocks (well this is where is it on the old, centre speedo). The float is basically a variable resistor, and it needs a fixed resistor in the circuit to make it work, which is the 'voltage stabiliser'. This could've packed up.
Dan
Dan

#3
Posted 04 February 2011 - 01:02 PM
Ahh right, thank you for this! i'll have alook once i get home

#4
Posted 04 February 2011 - 01:28 PM
Voltage stabiliser behind the clocks (well this is where is it on the old, centre speedo). The float is basically a variable resistor, and it needs a fixed resistor in the circuit to make it work, which is the 'voltage stabiliser'. This could've packed up.
Dan
Not exactly. The voltage stabilizer is synonymous with an electronic component called a voltage regulator. Like an pressure regulator on air lines, the voltage stabilizer drops the car's operating voltage down to a controlled, constant level for stable gauge operation (10V dc).
Like the fuel gauge, most standard temperature gauges are also "electric" and powered by the voltage stabilizer. Therefor, if your temperature gauge is working but the fuel gauge is not, there is a problem with the fuel gauge, fuel sending unit, or wiring... but not the voltage stabilizer.
Start your testing by turning the ignition switch to the "run" position. Open the boot and use a length of wire to "short" across the two terminals on the sending unit (leave the existing wires in place and make sure your wire makes metal to metal contact). If the gauge goes to full, the sender is at fault. If the gauge does NOT go to full, move your piece of wire so it contacts the terminal with the green/black wire attached. Put the other end of the wire on the battery (-) (earth) terminal. If the gauge goes to full this time, it indicates (most likely) that the BLACK wire on the sending unit has failed. If the gauge does NOT go to full, the problem is either a break in the green/black wire or with the fuel gauge itself.
#5
Posted 04 February 2011 - 01:37 PM
Thank you!
I will also try this too!
I will also try this too!

#6
Posted 04 February 2011 - 04:31 PM
Thanks for the correction

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