
Stupid Dumb Question
#1
Posted 22 October 2011 - 07:55 AM
#2
Posted 22 October 2011 - 08:24 AM
#3
Posted 22 October 2011 - 08:31 AM
#4
Posted 22 October 2011 - 08:57 AM
Well i dont have a engine hoist i would have to hire one so if i can get the block off and then take the gearbox out, i will only have to hire it to put it back in, i thought it would be awkward, cant i put the seal in after or do you have to split the engine and boxit is possible to remove the enging and leave the gearbox in situ (not recommended) but its a real pain of a job and takes 3 times longer than taking the whole lot out, with the engine out i always turn the block upside down and place the gearbox onto the block as this way you can more or less guarantee that the 1/2 moon seal (on the crank damper end) sits properly and seals as it should......these seals are notorious for leaking and if they do it means that you have to lift the engine back out again and split the box etc......unless you use the engine hoist to lower the block onto the box but even then you cant guarantee that you wont snag the seal.
seems an awful lot of bother if you have an oil leak, just for replacing a leaking seal
#5
Posted 22 October 2011 - 09:13 AM
To lift the block out without a crane would not be easy either, not because of the weight, but because of the awkward angle (don't do your back in!).
Not advised, but 'bmc...' will be along shortly to tell you how easy it is

#6
Posted 22 October 2011 - 09:17 AM
Told you i was dumb ha ha haI've heard of taking the engine off and leaving the box in-situ, but it's not something I would want to do. It's so easy to get the entire engine & box out and then easy to work on it with it all on the bench.
To lift the block out without a crane would not be easy either, not because of the weight, but because of the awkward angle (don't do your back in!).
Not advised, but 'bmc...' will be along shortly to tell you how easy it is

#7
Posted 22 October 2011 - 10:36 AM
#8
Posted 22 October 2011 - 11:48 AM
#9
Posted 22 October 2011 - 01:25 PM
Good man, been having a look today time isn't an issue just want to take as little as possible to bits i am a joiner by trade and i hate having to do things twice, should have thought of that before i put the engine in, but can't help that now, what is done is done, i am in a delema now i can get a referbished overbored block,, or an engine, bloke says has only done 36000 miles what is putting me off the engine is they have even painted the head studs and nuts also the oil pipe to the filter not a thing i would do, i am frightened i end up with 2 lumps of scapPut your ingenuity in to improvising a lift. I've done bigger and more awkward lumps lifting on a trolley jack while taking in the slack on a rope over a beam or makeshift tripod. Experiment to get enough friction on the rope to hold the weight before committing yourself.
#10
Posted 22 October 2011 - 02:52 PM
Actually I don't know how many miles it's done, but I do know it needs a complete rebuild.
The only safe way to approach aa second hand engine of which you know not the true condition is to assume it needs a re-bore, new pistons, crank grind, etc. Then you won't be disappointed.
I've seen some truly dreadful 2nd hand engines over the years, all of which were described as being in 'good running condition'.
#11
Posted 22 October 2011 - 03:02 PM
That is a very good point bud, that is what has been in the back of my mind, but you have explained it much better and made my mind up same with the block how do i know it has been re-bored both items are on ebay, i have no qualms about using ebay but as you say without proof you could be buying another load of trouble,To be a bit cynical, I've a 1275 engine in the corner of my workshop. I could easily paint it red, put a head on it and say it's done 25000 miles, so I want £XXX for it.
Actually I don't know how many miles it's done, but I do know it needs a complete rebuild.
The only safe way to approach aa second hand engine of which you know not the true condition is to assume it needs a re-bore, new pistons, crank grind, etc. Then you won't be disappointed.
I've seen some truly dreadful 2nd hand engines over the years, all of which were described as being in 'good running condition'.

#12
Posted 22 October 2011 - 03:07 PM
First off, get a desired specification written to suit your anticipated use. Then maybe post it on here and you'll get some comments on it. Then go from there.
You could make up a tripod frame from timber with a light pulley system to lift the engine/gearbox out. Maybe a triangle at each side with a scaffold pole across to take the lift tackle. Just an idea.
Edited by Cooperman, 22 October 2011 - 03:13 PM.
#13
Posted 22 October 2011 - 04:05 PM
Thanks for that bud hoist is no problem to make, one thing is worrying me, the Haynes manual says you need special tools to remove the primary gear for the oil seal is this just for replacing the seal in situ or will i need them to strip the engineA wise decision if I may say so. Just come on here and ask anything you need to know as you do the rebuild.
First off, get a desired specification written to suit your anticipated use. Then maybe post it on here and you'll get some comments on it. Then go from there.
You could make up a tripod frame from timber with a light pulley system to lift the engine/gearbox out. Maybe a triangle at each side with a scaffold pole across to take the lift tackle. Just an idea.
#14
Posted 22 October 2011 - 04:11 PM
Get it all to pieces first, then we'll all help with re-assembly advice.
You do need a Haynes Manual, or an old BMC Workshop Manual, to use when stripping it down.
#15
Posted 22 October 2011 - 04:21 PM
Super , yeah got one of them replaced the clutch before i put the engine in so thats one less thing to buyYou need a good flywheel puller to remove clutch and flywheel, but the primary gear oil seal is easy to do. there is a special tool, but it's not essential. The thing to remembert is that when you slide the new 'red seal' over the primary gear splines you need to wrap the splines with tape - masking tape is ideal - and put a bit of grease on the outside of the tape so that the lip of the seal is not damaged.
Get it all to pieces first, then we'll all help with re-assembly advice.
You do need a Haynes Manual, or an old BMC Workshop Manual, to use when stripping it down.
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