Low Oil Pressure On Idle
Best Answer Cooperman , 11 May 2015 - 01:35 PM
Ah, 15w40 is too thin.
The best easily available oil for the classic Mini is Valvoline VR1 20w50 mineral.
With the classic Mini the problem is the gearbox which needs a thick-ish oil. The old design of engine also means that a thicker oil than the current oils is needed with as high a ZDDP level as possible.
A good rule-of-thumb with the A-series engine is that so long as there is an absolute minimum 10 psi of oil pressure for each 1000 rpm when fully warm the engine if OK. Below that sort of figure it might be due for a re-build with new big-end and -main bearings and a new oil pump, etc.
Go to the full post#1
Posted 09 May 2015 - 07:31 PM
#2
Posted 09 May 2015 - 07:32 PM
#3
Posted 09 May 2015 - 07:35 PM
Define "low".
You need a minimum of 10 PSI at hot idle, 20+ is better. For each 1000 RPM off idle you want an additional 10 PSI up to the set point at which the relief valve opens.
Low oil pressure at idle can be from a worn pump, a new pump with excessive clearances, worn bearing, and perhaps a relief valve that is jammed open. The only one of those you can look at and address with the engine in the car is the relief valve condition.
Also, the grade of oil you use will affect the pressure. While later engines may call for thinner oils, 20W50 is what the early A-series used to maintain proper oil pressure.
#4
Posted 09 May 2015 - 07:35 PM
#5
Posted 09 May 2015 - 07:51 PM
#6
Posted 09 May 2015 - 07:55 PM
Why do you keep posting this question. You have already started two other threads for the same question which i have merged.
#7
Posted 09 May 2015 - 08:00 PM
And now I have merged these two. Please, no more new posts on the same topic.
#8
Posted 09 May 2015 - 08:33 PM
#9
Posted 09 May 2015 - 08:54 PM
I cannot answer any questions about injected Minis. If the SPI and MPI kept the relief valve in the same place as other A and A+ engines, it will be on the front of the block just to the left and slightly above the distributor as you stand looking at the engine. The valve is held in place by a spring under a domed nut. You remove the domed nut, sealing washer, spring, and finally the plunger that is the working part of the relief valve. If it is stuck you can thread a tap into the back of the plunger just enough to extract it. All parts are available from most parts suppliers.
Be advised though that if the relief valve is not stuck, no amount of fidling with it will change your hot idle oil pressure. The valve does not control low pressure, only the maximum pressure that will reach the engine.
#10
Posted 09 May 2015 - 09:09 PM
#11
Posted 09 May 2015 - 10:48 PM
#12
Posted 10 May 2015 - 12:10 AM
#13
Posted 11 May 2015 - 12:14 PM
Attached Files
#14
Posted 11 May 2015 - 12:16 PM
I haven't had chance to check the relief valve I plan to check that tomorrow
Attached Files
#15
Posted 11 May 2015 - 12:40 PM
That all looks fine.
Presumably you are using a top quality 20w50 mineral oil and change it every 2000 to 3000 miles together with the filter.
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