
Anyone Bought An Engine From Minispeed?
#16
Posted 15 April 2015 - 04:37 PM
#17
Posted 15 April 2015 - 07:38 PM
It's 1380, stage 4 head, high lift rockers, 286 cam, 3.1 diff, hiff44, updated bits and pieces inside. I'm hoping it will last a while, it's not a daily drive and I won't be racing it, maybe the odd track day every so often.
I'm following minispeeds instructions for running it in, should lead to a longer life in theory! It's only just coming on cam before I have to change gear at the moment. Can't wait to actually be able to put my foot down!
just wondering why you would put a 3.1 dif with a 286 cam
you may be dissapointed
You're not wrong Bob, my 286 with a 3.1 was dreadful. It was never on the cam.
#18
Posted 15 April 2015 - 07:44 PM
Just got off the phone with them, really happy with their service so far and the options you have with final drive, cam etc. Looks like I'll be selling everything I've bought engine-wise to fund it!
My current engine and box is built with minispeed parts. I'm pretty sure my pistons, rings, shells, bearings etc are the same as you'd be getting.
I later bought a reground crank from them at Brighton. It had a fair bit taken off the journals. I then had a change of heart and wanted one with less taken off. They happily changed it at no extra cost and polished up the journals for fitting (it had been hardened) while I waited.
The service was superb and I've got a decent engine and box. Just don't get the 286 with 3.1 !! A 266 would suit the 3.1 perfectly and give you a nice road car.
#19
Posted 15 April 2015 - 08:04 PM
What FDR would you get on a 1275 with a 286 cam? 3.4? 3.7?
#20
Posted 15 April 2015 - 08:15 PM
What FDR would you get on a 1275 with a 286 cam? 3.4? 3.7?
3.7 would be good. 3.4 at a push. 3.7 not great if you want to cruise much though.
For me a 286 isn't a good road cam. Just needs too many revs to come to life. It's great for chasing a high bhp figure but torque is what counts in the real world.
#21
Posted 15 April 2015 - 08:44 PM
What FDR would you get on a 1275 with a 286 cam? 3.4? 3.7?
if it was me be a 3.4 for road use 3.76 for track day car
#22
Posted 15 April 2015 - 08:53 PM
What FDR would you get on a 1275 with a 286 cam? 3.4? 3.7?
3.7 would be good. 3.4 at a push. 3.7 not great if you want to cruise much though.
For me a 286 isn't a good road cam. Just needs too many revs to come to life. It's great for chasing a high bhp figure but torque is what counts in the real world.
Wondering how different the 286 is from the AEG 643 I have. Vizards says its an 'excellent road cam on the 1275', had it in my 998 and was very pleasing.. Looking foreward to the 1330 build :)
#23
Posted 15 April 2015 - 08:54 PM
#24
Posted 15 April 2015 - 10:14 PM
#25
Posted 15 April 2015 - 11:18 PM
Standard gearbox +120hp = big bang and long walk. Get straight cut and ear defenders!
Please elaborate. Everyone knows that helical gears in fact are strong enough. Straight cuts only reduce sid eloadings and transmission loss.
#26
Posted 16 April 2015 - 12:31 AM
What FDR would you get on a 1275 with a 286 cam? 3.4? 3.7?
3.4 if you do some motorway cruising or a 3.6 if you don't.
From my own experience, Helical Gears are consistantly reliable to about 125 Flywheel HPs, though Matt Read recons about 170 HPs. I'm not as optimistic as Matt! Just make sure the gear case is not cracked and one that's in spec!
#27
Posted 16 April 2015 - 03:18 PM
Hi, I´m considering to upgrade my 1275 Cooper to 1380 but I have a low budget. Can I just change Pistons, bearings and pump ?
#28
Posted 16 April 2015 - 07:14 PM
Please elaborate. Everyone knows that helical gears in fact are strong enough. Straight cuts only reduce sid eloadings and transmission loss.Standard gearbox +120hp = big bang and long walk. Get straight cut and ear defenders!
No straight cuts real strength is to reduce the loading through the casing, the gears don't go but the casing does. The casing is very hit or miss quality and you may be lucky but if the casing does go it can cause a lot of collateral damage to the gears and engine caused by bits where they should not be. For everyone who gets away with it there is some poor sod who doesn't...feeling lucky?
#29
Posted 16 April 2015 - 07:22 PM
What FDR would you get on a 1275 with a 286 cam? 3.4? 3.7?
3.4 if you do some motorway cruising or a 3.6 if you don't.
From my own experience, Helical Gears are consistantly reliable to about 125 Flywheel HPs, though Matt Read recons about 170 HPs. I'm not as optimistic as Matt! Just make sure the gear case is not cracked and one that's in spec!
The gearbox will take a lot of power but the killer is sudden loading such as flying starts or quick changes under power, that will be when the box gives up. I may be wrong but what point is there in going for these HP figures unless they can be reliably used in anger? If you are considering this route for goodness sake get the box crack tested first and join the AA.
#30
Posted 16 April 2015 - 08:56 PM
Please elaborate. Everyone knows that helical gears in fact are strong enough. Straight cuts only reduce sid eloadings and transmission loss.Standard gearbox +120hp = big bang and long walk. Get straight cut and ear defenders!
No straight cuts real strength is to reduce the loading through the casing, the gears don't go but the casing does. The casing is very hit or miss quality and you may be lucky but if the casing does go it can cause a lot of collateral damage to the gears and engine caused by bits where they should not be. For everyone who gets away with it there is some poor sod who doesn't...feeling lucky?
I have yet to see the first bren gearbox with helical gears. Won't argue about transfers though.
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