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When You Cant Find What You Want....


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#1 Burnard

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 10:27 PM

When you cant find exactly what you want, want not just draw it yourself and print it? 
 
Gauge pods these days piss me off, no one seems to make anything nice or suitable for what i wanted to i drew up what i wanted in CAD and 3d Printed it. 
 
What do you guys think? 
It will be painted black before final fitting. 
 
10872928_10152913661300853_4978301104808
 
10869682_10152913661305853_2199784407154
 
10517267_10152913661420853_4568572550461
 
10818267_10152913661290853_6560830999274
 
 
Please excuse the state of my dash at the moment, I am working on a few new bits and pieces over winter will all be tidied up properly before she hits the road again :) 
 
 
Chris.

#2 Mini Manannán

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 10:35 PM

That looks most excellent, nicely done!



#3 Ben_O

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 10:37 PM

I bet set up costs are dear though?

 

Perhaps you could start taking orders??  :D



#4 Burnard

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 10:51 PM

Thanks guys. :)

 

If i were to do it in my spare time it wouldnt be too bad, but it does take 9 hours to print one (roughly). 

I think if i were to produce them for sale then they would end up costing about £30 a piece, but id have to have enough interest first (and register as a trader).



#5 Jared Mk3

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 11:08 PM

Very nice :) simple and effective.

#6 Spider

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 11:54 PM

 
What do you guys think?

 

 

I think I hate you!

 

Thinking outside the square with some modern tools, very nice indeed and didn't even have to get your hands dirty to make it.

 

I've looked on and off at some of the cheaper 3D Printers that are about, could you share a little on what Printer you used and what program you drove it all with?   Or do you simply do it as a 3D drawing in AutoCAD and click print?

 

How does the plastic (?) rate in terms of strength and UV resistance do you think?

 

Yeah, yeah, OK, I'll say it - really cool mate,  nicely styled and done!


Edited by Moke Spider, 17 December 2014 - 08:21 AM.


#7 Burnard

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Posted 17 December 2014 - 12:32 PM

The printer used is an up! 3d mini.
It comes with all its own drivers and pretty much programs itself. All you need to do is load the file into its CAM program and let it convert your CAD file into a full program. ( much like any CNC process these days)

I use auto desk to design my parts as I can get it for free, but even if I had to pay it is still a very good program to use.

The plastic used is abs although you can print with pla, but it biodegrades very quickly. And as such as the same properties as anything made from the same material.
Strength wise really does depend on the design and how you print it. I wouldn't really want to use it for any structural parts but for this application and a few others like low stress supports and clips, cable tidies that sort of thing it is perfect.

This is the first thing I have ever 3d printed, and as such is not perfect. A few more test bits and getting the machine set will take a little bit of time, but could quickly start producing bits for people if there was the demand for it.

Chris.

#8 The Matt

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Posted 17 December 2014 - 04:33 PM

Looks good to me. I've always had an interest in RP and have been tempted to buy a 3D printer recently. Very versatile pieces of kit.

#9 Vinay-RS

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Posted 17 December 2014 - 05:03 PM

What is the largest thing you can print? Also what are the actual tolerances on the printer, or can they be set like on a CNC? (By changing the feed rate and tooling)



#10 ScrambledEggs

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Posted 17 December 2014 - 05:29 PM

What is the largest thing you can print? Also what are the actual tolerances on the printer, or can they be set like on a CNC? (By changing the feed rate and tooling)

 

not sure about the 3d printer in question but you can normally control the feed rate and layer thickness. Thinner layers and slower feeds result in higher resolution prints.



#11 Vinay-RS

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Posted 17 December 2014 - 05:41 PM

 

What is the largest thing you can print? Also what are the actual tolerances on the printer, or can they be set like on a CNC? (By changing the feed rate and tooling)

 

not sure about the 3d printer in question but you can normally control the feed rate and layer thickness. Thinner layers and slower feeds result in higher resolution prints.

 

Oh that's cool, cause while it might not be crucial for the OPs usage, the actual fit of the manufactured part may be more important in other instances. Doesn't sound like it'll cost more either, since there is no increase in material costs, only energy costs of using the printer.



#12 Spider

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Posted 17 December 2014 - 08:07 PM

The printer used is an up! 3d mini.
It comes with all its own drivers and pretty much programs itself. All you need to do is load the file into its CAM program and let it convert your CAD file into a full program. ( much like any CNC process these days)

I use auto desk to design my parts as I can get it for free, but even if I had to pay it is still a very good program to use.

The plastic used is abs although you can print with pla, but it biodegrades very quickly. And as such as the same properties as anything made from the same material.
Strength wise really does depend on the design and how you print it. I wouldn't really want to use it for any structural parts but for this application and a few others like low stress supports and clips, cable tidies that sort of thing it is perfect.

This is the first thing I have ever 3d printed, and as such is not perfect. A few more test bits and getting the machine set will take a little bit of time, but could quickly start producing bits for people if there was the demand for it.

Chris.

 

 

Cheers for that.

 

I guess like anything, the first one is a learning experience, yeah, I've had lots and lots of those!    I actually see these 3D printers as the Bee's Knee's for one off's and any small production type runs you'd possibly be better off having them done outside, they could work from your 3D Prototype though!  I say this mainly because I noted that your awesome gauge pod took around 9 hours, I could also be talking out of my hat here too!  Never having driven a 3D Printer. I'll look that printer up.

 

These have come on to our local market in the last few months

 

http://www.jaycar.co...w.asp?ID=TL4020

 

while tempting, I think I'd prefer a non kit based one, I feel this is only an entry level type printer - with all the limiting frustrations that come with it!

 

Cool that one can use ABS, that is a reasonable and fairly stable material, I guess you could also get a few colours too?

 

I don't have (Autodesk) AutoCAD as the price to buy it here is out of this world (around $5 to 8K!), I use TurboCAD, which I'm told works much the same as AutoCAD, was only about 250 bucks! Done me well for the past 8 or 9 years!  It can save files in the native AutoCAD format as well as opening them (most of the time!), I'm happy with it, but then again, I don't know anything else.

 

Thanks heaps for sharing.



#13 Burnard

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 06:06 PM

in terms of tolerancing... Put it this way, the gauges are a press fit by design and you need to pry them out with a screw driver, but its not difficult. 

I programmed the bores where the gauges sit to be 50microns+ on the diameter for the gauged and they are both pretty much spot on. 

 

This is a 200micron tolerance machine, but can go down to 100microns on its 'fine' setting, which is as you say a slower feed rate and smaller step over (note the extruded fluid is still the same size) 

 

 

If you look online the ABS is available in just about any colour you like. If I were to make one again i would use black ABS filament. I dont think i mentioned, but the machine i used belongs to my college, but i can pretty much use it when i want anyway, but if i become happy with the parts i will probably buy myself one as i can get a pretty decent student discount.

 

Those reprap 3D printers are okay, but having done a fair bit of research an enclosed machine is much better and much more accurate. 



#14 ScrambledEggs

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 06:28 PM

 

Those reprap 3D printers are okay, but having done a fair bit of research an enclosed machine is much better and much more accurate. 

 

Having an enclosed machine makes little difference to print quality. What it does do is reduce noise, shelters the printer from any draughts, provides some safety if kids are around and makes it look pretty.

 

The accuracy lies in the mechanical components. I.e. the rigidity of the frame, the type of printer (e.g. Delta vs. 3 axis), the stepper motors, the stepper motor drivers, micro steppers, ball screws/toothed belts, anti backlash ball nuts, software, auto leveling, extruders, print heads, heat beds etc etc.

 

There is a fair bit to consider when looking to buy or build a 3d printer. 


Edited by ScrambledEggs, 18 December 2014 - 06:28 PM.


#15 Spider

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 07:46 PM

Many thanks guys, learning all the time. Yes, that does make a lot of sense re: an enclosed machine, not an aspect I'd thought of.

 

Gee, at at 200 microns, for most automotive applications, that would be better than the stuff the factory supplied!






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