211 replies to this topic

[james962]

Yeah, definately a good bit of kit. You can just make out the tooth I have removed, it is actually just before the TDC mark on the pulley - next to the timing marks at 4 - 8*.

I have a single HS4 so will use the standard vacuum advance take off from the carb. Where does the vacuum advance work from on the distributor with twin carbs, or doesn't it use a vac advance take off from the carbs? If it doesn't, I would maybe take a take off from each inlet tract and join them together. Do you also have a vacuum assisted brake servo? You mentioned the inlet bridge, is this a hollow bridge joining both inlet tracts together on you inlet? If so this could work providing there is enough area to get a tap and nipple in.

[holmesy]

if you want to use twin carbs then use the two nipples at the carbs into a T piece them run that to the nodiz.

[o0OWILKSO0o]

Well I'm back in Germany. Progress so far...

All parts dropped off in garage.
Observed oil mark under car.
Closed garage door.

Need motivation and a babysitter.

[james962]

Well I'm back in Germany. Progress so far...

All parts dropped off in garage.
Observed oil mark under car.
Closed garage door.

Need motivation and a babysitter.

Yep, a little bit the same here. Head gasket blown. Got to wait for a new one. Fitting my trigger wheel, I had to take out the rad. Whilst the rad is out and the old pulley off, I might as well remove the timing cover, straighten the contact face and reseal as it was leaking slightly. Whilst all of this is out anyway, I may as well remove the rad side engine mount, jack the engine up slightly and change the speedo worm and pinion to correct the speedo.....etc etc.

[Spud_133]

if you want to use twin carbs then use the two nipples at the carbs into a T piece them run that to the nodiz.

Do you know where I could get a t piece for my twins?

[holmesy]

well the nodiz needs a 4mm connector so you'll need 4mm hose which I did check check yesterday that fits onto my hif44 nipple so should be the same for your twins. ebay or jjc racr and rally would be a first bet

[o0OWILKSO0o]

I think I saw some on triggerwheels.com. There was a bit that alloys you to drill into the manifold and get the feed from there.

[kappa]

E-mail sent

[motorsportelectronics]

Come on then chaps... where we too??? Im looking forward to the FIRST official NODIZ Powered mini! Will put the pics up on our website/banner pages :)

[james962]

Hopefully this weekend if all goes to plan

[o0OWILKSO0o]

Back in the UK till the 7th so no progress here until I head back to sausageland

[james962]

http://i157.photobuc...zps487fc51a.mp4

We have one running!

[kappa]

http://i157.photobuc...zps487fc51a.mp4

We have one running!

nice, was it hard to set up?

[holmesy]

can't see the pic

[james962]

Was not hard to set up at all really. The main unit you have 12v feed, earth, coil A, coil B, cranks sensor and vacuum hose to connect up. The coil A and B go to the coil pack, and you also need a 12v feed to this as well (middle connector). Remember that the Nodiz unit needs a 12v feed whilst cranking....this had me stumped for a few mins

One thing you need to think about is without the standard coil, there is no coil -> starter solenoid wire, so you will also need to trace one of these (ignition live).


Here are a few pictures of the various parts of my install:


MED trigger wheels, crank sensor bracket & sensor



I used a Ford Ka coil pack and HT leads. Bought both from Eurocarparts. Couldn't see the point at this stage to buy secondhand. Sourced a proper coil pack connector, and 2 pin junior connector for the crank sensor from PoleVolt.





Dizzy bung from DNS classics


Coil pack mounting


Nodiz unit mount



Final picture all assembled


Video of the engine running