How hard is it to move the gear selector housing inside the cabin, like some rally cars etc, & is there any major work involved? Also how does it affect the angle of the rods & do they need modifying as well?
If anyone's done this before it would be great to hear how you did it
Internal Gear Selector
Started by
Brams96
, Jul 30 2012 05:46 AM
7 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 30 July 2012 - 05:46 AM
#2
Posted 30 July 2012 - 07:21 AM
Hey dude just after installing a kad internal shifter looks really trick, few things i found out along the way, the handbrake fouls the internal houseing kad supply a small washer to angle the lever but to be honest i wasnt sure and i cut the handbrake brackets out and angled it and modified a polo handbrake, apart from that it was " fairly " straight forward, oh and you need to make sure the engine doesnt move! If it does it will jump out of gear, i put kad solid gearbox steadies in and a solid upper steady and poly ultimate engine steady
Edited by cian, 30 July 2012 - 07:23 AM.
#3
Posted 30 July 2012 - 07:40 AM
I wanted to mount mine inside the cab, yes it's possible it's difficult and the rods do need modifying slightly
First you will need 2 sets of the rods for the shifter one UJ a length of hollow bar that the internal diameter is the same as the external of the steady bar, then have to decide where in the cab you wont it
I put mine here so it doesn't hit my corsa dash.
The next thing was working out we're to drill the holes for the 2rods, we did this by measuring what angle the UJ worked at then setting the shifter at a similar anyle in relation to the rods under the car, we did this by having one person (me dad) under the car and lining it up by eye,
We then bit the bullet and drilled holes when we're both happy with there positions, we did shifter rod first and made sure it crossed paths with the one in the gear box
You then have to cut some off of them so that the 2 ends touch, then drill your UJ out so it's a snug fit
On both the shifter rods then drill through both the rods and the shifter on both sides of the UJ (gearbox side and car side ) to fit a roll pin)
With the other rod we turned the one attached to the gearbox upside down and mounted it on the gearbox attached the other one to the car to see how it looked, we need to bend the end up that was in the car on the gear box one so that it was at the same angle and ran on top of the shifter one, you then take the 2 steady bars and cut them down so there ends are touching then you take your hollow bar cut it down so it covers the join and abit either side and drill it and nock 2 roll pins in, I wouldn't advise welding the 2bits together as it won't fit through the hole on the floor lol
It will then look something like this
At this point we then decided to
Mount the bracket for the shifter so drilled to holes through the exhaust tunnel and bolted it down with some Polly mounts under it
Sorry don't have pics of that bit
Hope that helps
YetI
First you will need 2 sets of the rods for the shifter one UJ a length of hollow bar that the internal diameter is the same as the external of the steady bar, then have to decide where in the cab you wont it
I put mine here so it doesn't hit my corsa dash.
The next thing was working out we're to drill the holes for the 2rods, we did this by measuring what angle the UJ worked at then setting the shifter at a similar anyle in relation to the rods under the car, we did this by having one person (me dad) under the car and lining it up by eye,
We then bit the bullet and drilled holes when we're both happy with there positions, we did shifter rod first and made sure it crossed paths with the one in the gear box
You then have to cut some off of them so that the 2 ends touch, then drill your UJ out so it's a snug fit
On both the shifter rods then drill through both the rods and the shifter on both sides of the UJ (gearbox side and car side ) to fit a roll pin)
With the other rod we turned the one attached to the gearbox upside down and mounted it on the gearbox attached the other one to the car to see how it looked, we need to bend the end up that was in the car on the gear box one so that it was at the same angle and ran on top of the shifter one, you then take the 2 steady bars and cut them down so there ends are touching then you take your hollow bar cut it down so it covers the join and abit either side and drill it and nock 2 roll pins in, I wouldn't advise welding the 2bits together as it won't fit through the hole on the floor lol
It will then look something like this
At this point we then decided to
Mount the bracket for the shifter so drilled to holes through the exhaust tunnel and bolted it down with some Polly mounts under it
Sorry don't have pics of that bit
Hope that helps
YetI
#4
Posted 30 July 2012 - 07:43 AM
You only need to solid mount if your not using the steady bar.
#5
Posted 30 July 2012 - 08:51 AM
Yeti - Cheers, that's an awesome guide! With the steady rod, as it doesn't move, mounting the selector housing on a solid bracket inside the cabin would mean I could get rid of it? But I'm guessing the engine would have to be very solidly mounted so there isn't any movement.
Where did you get your UJ from?
Where did you get your UJ from?
#6
Posted 30 July 2012 - 04:37 PM
That UJ is exactly what I would have used. I am wondering if you still need the standard rod coupling, which with its sloppy fit and two rollpins forms a sort of UJ itself, albeit of limited angle capability, or whether it would work better if it was drilled oversize and fitted with larger pins to make it solid. Obviously the UJ can't go directly on to the gearbox shaft as it is rather bulky and would foul the steady rod bracket.
You could maybe use a second UJ inside the car, at the gear lever, to replace the other sloppy coupling.
I am thinking that using UJs might provide nicer operation even if the shift mechanism is in its normal place under the floor. And, it should not rattle, as the sloppy couplings sometimes do.
You could maybe use a second UJ inside the car, at the gear lever, to replace the other sloppy coupling.
I am thinking that using UJs might provide nicer operation even if the shift mechanism is in its normal place under the floor. And, it should not rattle, as the sloppy couplings sometimes do.
#7
Posted 30 July 2012 - 06:22 PM
i got the UJ from CBS carbuildersolutions
#8
Posted 30 July 2012 - 06:24 PM
i looked at getting rid of the other coupling but that would mean creating something to go in to the gearbox and attach were it normally attaches in there and then extends out, what ive done is just far easier, and with the KAD quick shift lever there isnt any slop
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users