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Rust Eater


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#1 iDemonix

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 03:44 PM

What brands are there, where can I buy it?

How much is too much rust to use a rust eater on? I ask because I've realised how much a nightmare it'd be to get in to these locations with a dremel or something, I HATE de-seemed mini's but my god I'm starting to consider doing it. Gutters just breed rust and hold water, worst design ever.

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#2 corrado vr6

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 04:11 PM

The problem is the worst rust is in the seam between the 2 panels so any treatment you put on is only on the outer surface rust, the only real way to cure is to chop out and weld in new metal!
Certainly treating what you can see and adding a protective coating will help seal the moisture out but will also seal in what moisture is already there
However the roof gutter could be wire wheeled and treated and touched in but never will look 100% unless it's done very neatly

#3 AVV IT

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 04:17 PM

I take it that you are talking about chemical rust converters?? "Kurust" and "Jenolite" are the two common brands, both of which can be bought from Halfrauds or any motor factor.

In my experience it's really only effective on areas that have already been attacked with a grinder, dremel tool etc though. Treating the areas as shown in the pictures above, will only really treat the surface of that sort of corrosion and not be all that effective. :(

#4 orangeboy

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 07:49 PM

I use fertan and fe123 from rustbuster, it leaves a coating over the rust I believe it kinda stops it getting oxygen/moisture in theory stopping the rust spreading.

The fe123 is the best imo

#5 tiger99

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 09:41 PM

All of these are only short term, and will only delay the inevitable for a while. I know, I tried them all.

Deseaming is not the answer. Some of the seams are very necessary to stiffen the shell, and if you just grind them off and weld, the shell will seriously lose stiffness. Not only is that unsafe, as it affects the handling and crashworthiness, but a flexing shell accelerates corrosion.

Long term, the rusty bits need to be cut out and new metal welded in. It is a big job, but probably will achieve a better result, if the roof panel is removed by drilling out all the spot welds, to enable proper repairs to be made, both to the roof and the body.

See what Scott did to his, probably one of the finest pieces of restoration that you will ever see, and a standard to inspire us all:

http://www.theminifo...t/page__st__240

#6 6joshh6

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 04:33 PM

I would reccomend hydrate 80- it won a practical classics award and I used it on a few spots on mine over the winter- it held them back fine. Just remove any loose grit or rust and slooorp it all over the rust. Make sure its on thick, follow the instructions to the letter and if it looks thin, give it a second coat. 500mls goes quite far too http://www.bilthambe...ents/hydrate-80. Good luck!




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