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Quick Fuse Box Question....


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#1 t@z

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 10:53 AM

can anyone tell me what bloody goes where as this is bugging me and the last bit i need to do for my wiring to be done.

ps i think i know i have the wrong type of fusebox was just trying to upgrade from the old one but what and where and the fuses i need would be a life saver :thumbsup:

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thanks

t

EDIT: ok wrong section!!! can someone please move :D

Edited by t@z, 12 February 2011 - 10:54 AM.


#2 Ethel

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 11:20 AM

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What might confuse you is that the original fusebox has double terminals & some were used as junctions - the 2 brown wires would both have connected to the same side of the same fuse. Easily sorted with a few piggyback spade connectors

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#3 Dan

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 11:26 AM

There aren't equivalent blade fuses for all the ones you need.

#4 t@z

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 11:30 AM

ahhh awesome thanks ethel for the picture. and thanks dan, back to the good old mini one then :(

#5 Tarmac Animal

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 04:36 PM

I put in one like you did and hooked up with a piggy back blade connector. Works fine but the only problem you might have is finding a 35amp fuse which i got mine from maplin.

On the topic.. I want to hook up a second fusebox but does anyone know how to join the power to both or best way?

#6 GraemeC

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 10:34 AM

A 35 Amp blade fuse does not have the same propoerties as a 35 Amp glass cartridge fuse. As Dan has said, there aren't direct swaps from glass to blade for all the fuses in a Mini fusebox

Have a search on the forum, it has been discussesd many times before and Dan has always given the same advice.

#7 Dan

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 11:34 AM

You are using a blade fuse stamped at 35 amps? Wow, BIG mistake. Swap it for a 20a immediately, it's not ideal but there is no such thing as a 17.5a. A 35 amp blade blows at 70 amps, blade and cartridge fuses are marked differently. Your wiring is not up to a 70 amp fault and you could easily have a fire. The 20a will still leave some room for faults to develop but is a closer match. It may run slightly overheated and you will have to keep an eye on it. Ideally swap back to a glass fusebox, or if you must use blades re-allocate the circuit distribution to a better spread of fuses. That means a lot of maths.

I want to hook up a second fusebox but does anyone know how to join the power to both or best way?


The fuse system in the Mini isn't really bussed, there is a fuse for each different group of circuits. What do you want the new fusebox to supply? Bussed boxes and terminals are available from auto electrical suppliers.

#8 Ethel

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 12:20 PM

You could supply it directly from the solenoid: via a relay if you want the circuits to be ignition dependent.

Why not try a 15 Amp blade in place of the 35 Amp glass fuse? It's not too likely you'll have everything on at once. Or you could reroute the rear screen heater via its own fuse, since it will be responsible for the largest load.

#9 Dan

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 12:55 PM

Slightly de-rating fuses is a great way to start a fire unfortunately becuause it tends to put the fuse into its slow blow region which results in massive heating. This is especially a problem with blades because they are open fuses.




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