20 replies to this topic

[Carlzilla]

My car is in need of a respray soon.

so at a rough guess at £1000 for a good paint job (eek!)

how much would it cost roughly if i did the car with aerosol cans?

obviously id prep the car properly, any ideas as to how many cans of primer id need, colour, and lacquer?

and how long it'd take?

car would most likely be covered with a car cover whilst im not doing anything with it between stages of paint


or am i best off just paying for it to be done?

[macini]

If you are prepared to put in the time and effort try this
http://wiki.club8090...Roller_painting
I think you'll find the cost of rattle cans prohibitive.

[crazirob]

personally you could rattle can a car and still get a good finish, just got back from a freinds house and he has had 2k rattle cans made up for a 500ml can was somthing like £10 but the finish is awsome, and its a metallic coulor so 2k then laquar looks the *man danglies*,

another mate has matt blacked his civic with a really nice purple inside and it looks fit so it can be done. but again like macini said it takes time to do it

Robbie

[1984mini25]

I'd go with the roller option, much cheaper and easyier to get a better finish. As cans are only really good for doing the odd panel, not a whole car.

This is the finish i got on the rear panel and this is striaght from the tin, onto the roller and then the car, i've aslo yet to flat and polish it.

Edited by 1984mini25, 06 June 2010 - 10:54 PM.

[leaky]

I painted the front of my car in rattle cans for about £20 and it took under an hour. Not gonna lie. It looks crap though.

[steve26-2008]

Hi what paint did you use to roll that mini ?, and did you use any thinners, that finish looks great.

[E-Tizzle]

i would quote about £1500 for the job.

£200 for the rattle cans.
£300 for prep work
£1000 for having it professionally painted after you try with the rattle cans.

if i was you i would get an old panel or bit of sheet metal and paint it with the cans first and polish it and wax it and everything, then see what finish you get. only if looks really good and isnt flat or anything then go ahead. also dont forget to take it outside as it would look slightly different in the day light, might not look as good.

hope that helps a bit

[WRLondon]

if i was you i would get an old panel or bit of sheet metal and paint it with the cans first and polish it and wax it and everything, then see what finish you get. only if looks really good and isnt flat or anything then go ahead. also dont forget to take it outside as it would look slightly different in the day light, might not look as good.

lol spot on
i'd leave it to fend for itself in the elements for abit too
see how it ages for a few weeks

but saying that i've seen some pretty good rattle can jobs

[Big Man]

Im no expert by any means, I found that off the shelf rattle cans are no way near as good as the ones that are made up specially. I asked the cahp who mixes them (see my wilco) thread. The made up ones have a different nozzel apparently and the spray goes on fantastic. However no shortcutting the prep work!!

Cheers

BM


Oh I also sprayed celly using an earlex 3000 electric spray system (amazon £50) and it went on a better than any rattle can but not as good as a compressor and spray gun. I sprayed using yellow with a 2mm nozel. Was a littel orange peel but soon cut out.

I then bought a 1mm Nozel and the results were way better as long as you dont try to put too much on and thin to 50 - 50 This also sprayed a metallic and laquer and again went on really well.

Needle options are 2mm 1.5mm and 1mm, 1 mm is very fine and good for lots of light coats building up, time consuming but you get what you afford.

Cheers

BM

[Calman]

I'd go with the roller option, much cheaper and easyier to get a better finish. As cans are only really good for doing the odd panel, not a whole car.

This is the finish i got on the rear panel and this is striaght from the tin, onto the roller and then the car, i've aslo yet to flat and polish it.

Im thinking of doing my Pug 309.

Did you just slapp it on over the original paint? Or key the surface prime, wet and dry between coats? And how many layers of primer and paint did you use?

+ Anything else worth metioning if you dont mind.

Thanks


EDIT Quoted piccys removed

Edited by Calman, 07 June 2010 - 09:18 AM.

[leaky]

Heres a picture of my car. You can tell its done with rattel cans and done badly at that.



It really needs a few more coats put that colour paints quite hard to find.

[mymini007]

I have rattle canned my roof, £80 including priming, and cutting compound.
My front end recently Under £50 back to the A panels. And that included a bit of filling.

There is nothing wrong with halfords rattle cans. Thc colour is a pretty good match on my car too.

You have to be prepared to put the time in, its all about the preparation and the finishing, you cant just put the paint on and walk away, as it will have a satin or orangepeel effect.

I took my car to a show yesterday and nobody said anything about the paint, and it was only when I pointed out that it had been painted by can recently, that anybody even noticed.

Edited by mymini007, 07 June 2010 - 10:11 AM.

[SonySandy]

Check my renovation through this link.... http://forum.minicoo...ead.php?t=12234

Total painting cost ---


10x High build primer 250ml can = 20.00
10x white primer 250ml can = 20.00
10x Halfords Rover BRG can 300ml = 52.90
6 x Halfords clear laquer 300ml = 39.94


Total = £132.84


Passenger door not up to standard of rest of car because it was completed at short notice, its been dented twice since it was fitted too (other useless motorists), could have done with more laquer, hence the reason the shine isn't so great compared with rest of car.

Attached Files

•  mincoop.JPG   136.88K   53 downloads

Edited by SonySandy, 07 June 2010 - 01:09 PM.

[mymini007]

Check my renovation through this link.... http://forum.minicoo...ead.php?t=12234

Total painting cost ---


10x High build primer 250ml can = 20.00
10x white primer 250ml can = 20.00
10x Halfords Rover BRG can 300ml = 52.90
6 x Halfords clear laquer 300ml = 39.94


Total = £132.84


Passenger door not up to standard of rest of car because it was completed at short notice, its been dented twice since it was fitted too (other useless motorists), could have done with more laquer, hence the reason the shine isn't so great compared with rest of car.

Where do you get your primer from at £2 a can?

[1984mini25]

Hi what paint did you use to roll that mini ?, and did you use any thinners, that finish looks great.

I'd go with the roller option, much cheaper and easyier to get a better finish. As cans are only really good for doing the odd panel, not a whole car.

This is the finish i got on the rear panel and this is striaght from the tin, onto the roller and then the car, i've aslo yet to flat and polish it.

Im thinking of doing my Pug 309.

Did you just slapp it on over the original paint? Or key the surface prime, wet and dry between coats? And how many layers of primer and paint did you use?

+ Anything else worth metioning if you dont mind.

Thanks


EDIT Quoted piccys removed

Seeing as I originally bought it and most of the parts when I was working, but just never had the time to do any thing to it. So I’m now trying to finish it as best I can on a budget of pretty much nothing.

The car has been primed since day one of the project during all the rust repairs with screw-fix red oxide, brushed on nice and thick and left for a few days to fully dry. Then the primer rubbed back with these grey foam-sanding blocks I’d found in the local pound store.

Once I was happy with the primer it was time for the paint, which again isn’t anything special being as its dulux non-drip gloss. Applied straight from the tin using a gloss roller head and fine paintbrush for all the bits the roller won’t get to.

If you mix it with thinners it does funny things, so best not too and it also helps to warm the paint up in a bowl of warm water (or a stupidly warm garage during the nice weather), as it just helps it roll on smoother.
With 3 coats of paint being more than enough, with a light sanding with the now used (so they are finer) sanding blocks inbetween, but this time used wet with a washing up liquid solution.

And that’s pretty much the finish I’ve got with doing the above, as I say I’ve yet to flat it off and polish. But I might also try and see after a week or two whether I can apply some Halfords lacquer over the top to seal it and help with the shine.