9 replies to this topic

[linearaudio]

Sorry this is a bit off-Mini, but I believe the answer should be the same!
I have just got an Austin 1100 on the road for my son. It has the old remote change box with the sandwich plate holding it to the engine. I have heard rumours that a reverse light switch can be fitted direct to the gearbox on this type, using the reverse detent plunger in the sump roughly below the oil filter ( doesn't seem to appear on later boxes?).
Can anyone shed some light on how to acheive this? ( I have posted on the ADO16 forum, but no response so far, and thought this subject may have come up on here).
Any ideas, Roy?

Many thanks in anticipation, Pete.

[dklawson]

See this picture link:
http://home.mindspri...verseswitch.jpg

You'll need the various components listed in/on the picture. You are correct, you remove the reverse detent plunger parts from the front of the gearbox and install the switch, spring, and plunger rod as shown in the JPG. After that, it's a question of pulling wires to/from a reverse lamp that you will have to select and mount.

On my car, I had an old halogen driving light. I mounted that under the rear bumper and used a relay in connection with the switch to handle the current.

[linearaudio]

Thats the ticket!! Many thanks. Someone previously led me towards a similar link, but I couldn't get it to read. This time it has!

['Chenzo]

Hi I have just happened across this thread and decided to register in order to contact dklawson (or anyone that may be able to enlighten me) .
The info and pictures for the reversing light switch posted on your link are most helpful.
However, I tried this mod on my remote change gearbox, only to watch the steel plunger fall from the end of the
spring into the dark recesses of my gearbox!
My question is: How are all three items (the switch, spring and plunger)retained together?
The nipple on the end of the switch only locates with the spring, but it doesn't seem to be a push fit.
Similarly, the spring merely locates with the steel plunger and doesn't seem to hold it in place.
Once all three are assembled and screwed into the gearbox casing, (Assming that all three items stay firmly attached to one another,
which in my case they didn't)I imagine that the spring and plunger are free to wave about in the gearbox void until
operated by the gear selector being put in reverse.
Please be kind enough correct my naivety and put me out of my misery!!!
Many Thanks
'Chenzo

[dklawson]

It has been about 8 years since I installed my reverse light switch so I can only answer from memory. You may want to send a PM to Guessworks and ask him to confirm this.

The reverse lamp switch, plunger rod, and spring replace the "regular" spring, sealing washer, and securing bolt. I believe the regular detent plunger (the one that engages the selector rods in the gearbox) is retained. So, you have the original detent, the new spring, the small diamter steel rod, and the switch. The switch is spaced out from the gearbox through the selective use of sealing washers (as shims) so the switch only comes on when reverse is fully engaged.

['Chenzo]

Thanks for the reply;
It's caused me to review the parts that I have just in case they're wrong.
I'm beginning to think that the spring that I have is incorrect; even though it matches the dimensions in
your diagram. when I place the spring up against the switch, I notice that the spring cannot depress/actuate
the switch because it's coil diameter is larger than the actuator/pressure plate on the switch.
In other words, because of it's diameter, the spring contacts with the switch body only.

Here's a thought though.... If the spring that I have is correct, then perhaps it simply acts as a cage for the
small diameter steel rod.
This in turn may explain why I lost the rod in my gearbox; I inserted that in first!
Maybe I should have placed the spring in first, with the gear stick in reverse, followed by inserting the steel rod through the
centre of the spring (now caged within the spring).
If I'm right, however, then the small steel rod would surely need to be longer to make contact with the nipple on the end of the switch?
I think perhaps that I need to experiment for a while.
I would however appreciate any enlightened comments on this subject, just in case I'm barking up the wrong tree...or just barking mad.
I'll let you know my progress.
Thanks

[dklawson]

I think you missed the part above where I said that I "think" the original reverse detent is left in the gearbox.

With the detent in place, the rod and spring go in next. Because the original detent is in the gearbox, the rod and spring cannot fall in. The spring pushes against the detent on one end, on the other end it pushes against the switch body. When you shift into reverse, the detent is pushed up, compressing the spring and moving the rod (which is inside the spring) so the rod actuates the plunger on the switch.

['Chenzo]

Oh boy, do I feel stupid!
You're right, I did miss read the part about retaining the original reverse detent!
Everything suddenly makes sense.
I'll try assembling correctly as you suggest (i.e. Detent, Spring + Rod and then switch).
It's just that this arrangement doesn't appear to be covered by any of the UK service manuals
that I have (and believe me I've got quite a few) and the on-line exploded parts diagrams that
I've seen just added to my confusion. OK I'm digging myself into a hole by trying to make excuses.
So I'll stop now.
Many Thanks for your help.

[dean wilhite]

Does anyone have a current source for this switch?

[smurfomatic]

Dean - I managed to buy a similar item (comes up as the same model number, GAE131) from Leacy Classics:

 

http://www.leacyclas...com/gae131.html

 

However, the ball on the end of the switch was much larger so I had to file it down to fit. Also needed to shorten the spring slightly to get it to work properly.