18 replies to this topic

[Jellevandok]

Hi,

Can anyone show me what the c-shape washer behind the flywheel looks like? I 've tried to pull mine off with a pulling tool but have not taken the c-shape washer in consideration. How easily would one wreck this washer resulting in not ever going to get the flywheel off? The engine is brand new so it's not like it's been stuck for years. I know there is a lot being written about flywheel removal, but even with the old topics I can't seem to get it off... I'm a bit desperate to find out whether I've already done some harm...

Jelle

[Jellevandok]

Is this the normal dept of the crank to the flywheel. I want to be sure I didn't already move it killiing the c-shape washer... If this is normal then may no harm has been done yet...

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Edited by Jellevandok, 17 December 2011 - 04:46 PM.

[lrostoke]

Somebody will confirm but I think you need No 1 cylinder (nearest radiator) to be at TDC before trying to pull flywheel off

[cradley-heathen]

if the flywheel is still on, and the crank is in the correct position (judged by the position of the slot in the end of the crank nose) then the c washer cant slip down and jam the flywheel on.

the c washer can only move once you have used the flywheel puller. if you have the crank in the wrong position, use the puller, and th eflywheel pops off, the washer can only move then and stop the flywheel coming off.

[Jellevandok]

if the flywheel is still on, and the crank is in the correct position (judged by the position of the slot in the end of the crank nose) then the c washer cant slip down and jam the flywheel on.

the c washer can only move once you have used the flywheel puller. if you have the crank in the wrong position, use the puller, and th eflywheel pops off, the washer can only move then and stop the flywheel coming off.

I'm sorry. So how can I see if the crank is in the right position? Is there a marking somewhere? Or is it ok when the sleeve in the crank is horisontal ether way? I've already tried pulling it and it didn't move an inch. How stuck are those flywheels on there? How big is the chance that I've wrecked the washer and killed my project? Or will I still be able to remove the flywheel without harm done?

Jelle

Jelle

[Jellevandok]

Isn't that c-shape washer for the primary gear? That's how is shown on minisport.com...

[Deathrow]

I've never heard of that washer being destroyed on flywheel removal.

As for how tight they are, the answer is anything from not tight at all to very very tight. All depending how long it's been on there.

When I removed the flywheel from my 998, the amount of force I had to apply with the flywheel puller caused the fly wheel to jump off the crank. You've got to be cautious when removing them.

If you are worried. I found this image on Mini Spares:



You can see the slots for the C washer are horizontal when the crank is flat. If you move the pistons so they are all mid stroke, the C washer shouldn't be affected by gravity. This is however assuming all cranks are made with the slots in the same orientation to the crank.

[Cooperman]

Put the pistons half way between TDC and BDC. That way you know the C washer is horizontal and definately can't slip down as the flywheel is 'pulled' and jam it on.
The position of your flywheel is correct, they don't go on any further than that.
Use a good quality puller and make sure you lock the flywheel with either a flywheel locking tool through the starter hole, or a suitable piece of steel jammed into the starter ring. For safety the proper flywheel locking tool is highly recommended.
Indeed, the C-washer holds the primary gear in place and after the flywheel is removed, you pull the C-washer out and the primary gear will come off the end of the crank once the primary gear inner oil seal is removed from the transfer gear casing.

Edited by Cooperman, 17 December 2011 - 05:21 PM.

[R1minimagic]

As your engine is already removed you can stop the flywheel turning by putting a crowbar through the 3 puller bolts and against the floor...

[Jellevandok]

Cooperman, I didn't use a very strong tool so the flywheel hasn't moved anything. How quickly does the washer jam up the flywheel? If retighten the bolt, could that give the washer back it's space?

[Cooperman]

If the flywheel has not 'popped' (literally) off the crankshaft, then it hasn't moved at all. It's a 'taper-lock' system so when it moves at all then it's released.
The C-washer won't move until the flywheel starts to move and although in theory it can drop down and jam the flywheel, personally I've never even heard of this happening. I guess someone will be along to tell me it happeneed to them.
Anyway, turn the flywheel until the pistons are all at mid-point. Check this by taking out the plugs, if the head is still on, and putting a pencil down each bore. When the pencil goes the same distance down each bore till it touches the piston top then all pistons are at mid-point. If the head is off, you can see when all the piston tops are at the same distance down from the top of the block.
Lock the flywheel as above and apply high torque to the centre bolt of the puller. Increase this torque until the flywheel comes off. if you get it really tight and the flywheel is still on, get a big club hammer and hit the end of the centre bolt really hard as if trying to knock it into the crankshaft end. That normally frees it. If it doesn't just tighten the bolt a bit more and clout it again.

[tiger99]

You have not yet moved the C washer. It can't slip out of place until the flywheel has been released from the crankshaft taper. The problem you are having is that the flywheel is tight on the taper, as it should be.

You need to use a proper puller, with the thrust plug fitted in the end of the crankshaft, or you will riun the thread in the crankshaft and have a very big problem. But right now, you don't have a serious problem.

Turn the engine till the pistons are half way down the bores (feel with a thin object throuigh the spark plug holes, or set the timing marks on the pulley end to 90 degrees approximately), put the puller on, tighten it up, and whack the back of the flywheel through the starter motor aperture. Tighten the puller again, whack it again, and eventually, with a loud bang it will be free.

Keep the crankshaft at the 90 degree position until the flywheel is off, then you can see the C washer, and remove it.

[Cooperman]

I never hit it through the starter hole because it's so easy to hit and crack the transfer gear casing (been there, done that!). With a Verto it doesn't work when hit through the starter hole, that only works with a pre-Verto flywheel.
Just hit the centre of the puller centre bolt as that puts the shock load straight into the centre-line of the puller and crank which ius where you want it.

[tiger99]

Cooperman,

Good point about the Verto. The reason I never suggested whacking the puller bolt (as you often have to do with any type of puller, not just the Mini flywheel) is that there is no room to swing a hammer, and I have always done clutches etc in the car. But on reading more closely, I see that the engine is out, so that is feasible. Tighten, whack, tighten, whack..... It has to release eventually.

[bmcecosse]

Never hit the flywheel - you may bend it... I have found it helps to sometimes whack the puller plate - seems to 'spring' the taper. But mostly - hit that bolt head HARD.