Hi, I have already posted a request for help for my timing problem but now I have discovered another potentially more serious problem: On my 998cc old mini metro engine, the blue plastic insulated arm which runs on the distributor shaft as part of the contact point system, has melted and therefore brought the points too close together. This is the third set of points that I have had with the same problem. I have changed the coil, the distributor and the condensor but the problem still persists. Please help.
Phil
Mini Points Melting
Started by
Philog4559
, Oct 14 2007 08:18 PM
8 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 14 October 2007 - 08:18 PM
#2
Posted 14 October 2007 - 08:36 PM
melted points is normally the condensor try another as they are cheap
#3
Posted 14 October 2007 - 08:36 PM
What coil is it standard?
Is the earth lead off the condenser in decent knick?
Try a different manufacturer's points 'n some lube on the dizzy shaft.
Is the earth lead off the condenser in decent knick?
Try a different manufacturer's points 'n some lube on the dizzy shaft.
#4
Posted 14 October 2007 - 08:38 PM
Hi and welcome to TMF! First thing with points - make sure you use genuine Lucas ones - some of the alternative makes don't seem to have the same grade of plastic on them, and secondly make sure you oil the felt pad and fit it in the forked prong bit so it lubricates the dizzy shaft.
JR
JR
#5
Posted 14 October 2007 - 08:55 PM
My guess is that your trying to run electronic ignition on a ballast wiring loom. Commong symptons they are.
#6
Posted 14 October 2007 - 09:15 PM
its got points tho??? :S
#7
Posted 14 October 2007 - 09:20 PM
Ha ha! I'm off to bed! I obviously need sleep! I would check the ballast/coil combination though, if you get it wrong they'll eventually melt the points.
#8
Posted 14 October 2007 - 10:38 PM
Have you checked what voltage is going from the ignition coil to the points? Iv seen them melt as they are getting too much voltage through the balast wire
#9
Posted 15 October 2007 - 01:52 AM
If you have a volt meter checking the coil type is easy enough. Hook a jumper wire between chassis ground and the coil (-) terminal (the one going to the dizzy). Switch on the ignition and use your volt meter to check the voltage between the coil (+) terminal and chassis ground. If you have 12V on the coil (+) terminal, you have a regular ignition system and you need a 3-ohm coil. If you measure between 6V and 9V on the coil (+) terminal you have a ballast ignition system and you need a lower resistance coil. If you run a ballast type coil on a standard ignition system it will wear the points out quickly and the points will run hotter.
There are many reports of the aftermarket points having inferior material used for their heel blocks. Make sure you by the best points you can find, lube the 4-lobe cam in the dizzy, and pray.
There are many reports of the aftermarket points having inferior material used for their heel blocks. Make sure you by the best points you can find, lube the 4-lobe cam in the dizzy, and pray.
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